Review on Fill Rite FR152 Piston Nozzle Spout by Andrew Jenkins

I have several 5 gallon gas cans and a 5 gallon raised tank with siphon hose for filling tanks in mowers, snow blowers, pressure washers, cultivators etc. and a large portable generator with a fairly hefty raised gas tank, and several cars and trucks . I'm not on a farm and can't live without traditional open fuel tanks, so I store backup/emergency gas in a set of 5 gallon "canisters" in the garage. I have found it slow and tedious to transfer fuel from various canisters into a raised siphon tank and later (when the fuel starts to age a little) transfer fuel from a large generator tank and other tanks into my cars to "burn" it beforehand. . Filling the various tanks with fresh fuel. I've used some "shaker siphon hoses" but they can only work if moved to the bottom reservoir. My main concern was to improve my ability to move to higher places. Introduce the FR112 Fill-Rite rotary vane hand pump. It is a positive displacement pump that uses a set of three vanes in the pump cavity to move liquids. It is "operated" by a crank and is not suitable for motorized operation, although it could be configured to be powered by an electric drill. It is made of painted cast aluminum with a cast iron inner rotor. I was pleased to learn that this pump is 100% made in the USA (Fort Wayne, Indiana, to the best of my knowledge). A NOTICE. Fill-Rite has several similar pumps. Numbered pump models. Some appear to be identical to the FR112, but are operated with a hand lever rather than a hand crank. Some others have the same pump body as the regular FR112 but with either fewer or more accessories. The regular FR112 comes with: - a pump housing - a telescoping metal suction tube (20" to 34" long) - an 8ft rubber outlet hose with a metal spout on the end - a small roll of teflon tape. Hole on the side about 1/2 inch from the normal bottom hole. This allows the intake manifold to be pulled out to the bottom of the tank. Some optional accessories include gallon or liter counters, alternative nozzles (e.g. to pump into buckets instead of tanks/jerricans). A NOTICE. The "Installation and Operation Manual" that comes with the FR112 is a two-page affair if you don't factor in the Spanish, French, and German pages (I bet the last two really appreciate NPT threaded fittings). !) This guide is really just an assembly guide and not a proper user guide, there is no mention of, for example, whether a vacuum switch is used, or how to use the nozzle lock, or that there are actually two alternative exits, or what the maximum suction height is or head, and that is d We do not say in which direction the crank must be turned. This last consideration may seem trivial, but it becomes more important as more than one official Fill-Rite YouTube video shows the wrong direction of rotation. The instructions therefore do not contain any specifications or factual information for the user, but at least basic complete assembly instructions and an exploded view with a parts list. Some of the information in this review is based on three emails and a phone call I had with Fill-Rite support as I couldn't find the information I needed anywhere else. I found it very easy to contact them via email and phone and in all cases I received prompt and knowledgeable replies. It is not recommended to use the pump where it needs to draw liquid higher than 3 feet. The included telescopic suction tube is a little shorter than 3 feet when fully extended. This pump will have trouble with typical 50-gallon kegs for this reason, but it should work just fine with any of the various fuel tanks that fit pickup truck bodies. The pump's suction fitting has 1" NPT threads. The delivery hose that comes with it is 8 feet long and Fill-Rite told me it can easily pump straight up, so the pump can be used to pump fuel into elevated tanks on higher ground To pump farms.Equipment etc. Of course in this case the torque will be greater.The pump's outlet connection has a 3/4" NPT thread. The material of the drain hose is quite "soft" black rubber, so it is not to hard pattern compared to a hose with no connectors (it's also heavy enough to keep the hose from dangling when transferring fuel.) Its outside diameter is similar to that of a typical gas station, which is found on typical gas station pumps and conventional gas fuel fillers as well as all common ones portable gas canister. The top of the pump has a socket for a nozzle/spout when not in use nd then rotated to lock them; if the hose is installed on the other end so that the end of the nozzle has an improper twist, the nozzle/nose may not want to remain docked on the receiver. When docking the fuel nozzle/nozzle, the pressure hose forms a U-loop, which prevents fuel from escaping at the end. One side of the pump, opposite the nozzle. The pump comes from the factory with an upper fitting that has a vacuum breaker installed, leaving another fitting for the drain hose. But Fill-Rite told me that you can swap the vacuum interrupter with the pressure hose if that better suits your setup. , or internal pump pressure, keeps the plate above the vent preventing fuel from escaping. However, when the drain hose is in a situation where uncontrolled siphoning occurs, even when the pump is not rotating, the plate moves around the cover to expose the vent letting in air which breaks the vacuum and stops the suction. The pump is assembled with a 2 inch NPT thread; It is suitable for most trucks and fuel drums. A strainer and check valve assembly is located between the pump port and the pump housing. Both the vacuum break and the check valve appear to prevent the pump from reversing (i.e. pumping from discharge to suction). However, at least one official Fill-Rite YouTube video mentions that this pump can run backwards if the crank is rotated in the opposite direction. When I tried pumping backwards it didn't seem to work. UPDATE 9-3-19: I checked with Fill-Rite and they told me that this pump CAN work in reverse (discharge end becomes suction end and vice versa); However, for this to work you will need to partially disassemble the pump to remove the check valve and you will also need to remove the vacuum interrupt valve (anti-siphon) and replace it with a 3/4 inch NPT plug. The pump will NOT run in reverse if you don't do these two things. In which direction the crank should be turned. If you look at the pump from the side where the crank is located, turn it clockwise to pump normally. The pump is recommended for use with: - Gasoline (including ethanol blends up to E15) - Diesel fuel (including biodiesel up to B20) - Heptane - Kerosene - Stoddard solvents (white spirit and similar) - Light oils (including motor oil, hydraulic oil). liquid, transmission liquid) The pump is NOT compatible with: - water (good, it works with water, but should not be used because of the rust of the iron core, and the pump is not suitable for drinking water) - sulfuric acid - naphtha - methanol - methyl ethyl ketone ( IEC) - Acetone - Ammonia - Benzene, Bleach, Chlorine and more. The pump is rated for 10 gallons (38 liters). c) per 100 turns of the crank. Personally, I've found it to be less effective than these numbers suggest. Note that this "specification" is not in the user manual, but is listed on the outside of the box that the pump came in. Difficulty using it on a manual application - the cranking power is quite low and it is easy to inflate, although the cranking power increases when inflated to a higher level; However, it still takes enough force to actually attach the pump to something stable. The wooden handle is not meant to be rotated on a fulcrum; it's firmly fixed in place, so you need to squeeze it freely so it can slide in your hand as you spin; It's not really a big deal, but I see no reason why Fill-Rite couldn't offer a typical plastic crank that rotates on its own axis like pretty much every other crank device these days. UPDATE 9-4-19: Fill-Rite informed me that my pump was missing a loose part, the lock nut, and because it was not installed on the handle screw, the handle was not rotating as intended. Apparently the bolt needs to go through a threaded hole in the crank and then the lock nut needs to be adjusted as a lock nut so the bolt is tight and not pinching the wooden crank yet. The NPT threaded pump neck will likely rotate too freely, to the point where it suddenly wants to rotate tighter; This is typical for all NPT threaded items. The problem is that in many installations, the orientation of the pump matters. there is, and that magic point where it wants to stop spinning is probably not in the orientation you want. If the pump body (and neck) were cast iron, you could just put an adjustable wrench on it and tighten it a bit leave more until proper alignment is achieved. But with an aluminum construction, you'll just rip apart the soft metal if you try this solution. My own solution was that I (with the pump mounted in the tank plug in the tightest position that I could turn it without a wrench or pli, but still had the alignment I wanted) drilled the bead/sleeve of the tank plug and then drilled a little further to leave a tiny indentation on the 2-inch NPT pump fitting threads; The hole was the size of a #6 faucet. I then removed the pump and screwed the hole for the 6-32 and then used a larger drill bit to enlarge the recess in the pump threads, leaving the end of the 6-32 screw could go into the deepening. After screwing the pump into the tank plug in its original position, I adjusted the 6-32 screw to act as a set screw, locking the pump in the desired position in the plug. with a straight suction tube, and many of the tanks I have to pump from don't have 2" NPT connectors. So I built some sort of pump stand (see three photos) using scrap plywood, 2x4s, and some hardware. ; I installed a 30" rubber hose (using a 3/4" barbed hose adapter in a 1" threaded pump intake) that I can bend as needed to get to any tank I'm pumping from pump. The pump stand is in the ground next to the one I am pumping from and the pump is offset to the 2x4 upright stand so it can extend above the tank being pumped. The wooden pump mount is fitted with a 2" NPT bottom flange to accept a pump mount (set screw added as above). A simple knurled wooden friction fitting allows the pump mount to move up and down on the 2x4 wheel. to the desired height above the tank. The 2x4 stand is mounted on a plywood base which serves to both support and stabilize the pump stand and also allows me to place my foot on it while pumping. more stability of the stand during pumping. This arrangement works very well for me - I've found that a certain amount of fuel remains in the pump housing after pumping, even if I try to reverse the crankshaft. at the end of the run. This means when I store the pump stand some fuel will drip out of the intake manifold/hose over time. the lower end of the suction hose so that the fuel does not cause problems on the ground. If the pump is installed according to Fill-Rite recommendations, this is not a problem. Fill-Rite informed me that there is no reason why the pump should not be used in a horizontal position, either grip to the side or grip up. Above. I asked because I was thinking of mounting the 2" NPT end of the pump in a wall mount, which would work best in that orientation, with the suction hose then protruding into a nearby container. I abandoned this approach because it would result in added suction. Hose length that exceeds the recommended maximum length of 3 feet (3 feet).