Review on 🖨️ Ultimate Precision: Vibrant Filament Refills for 3D Printing by Antoine Cash

This PETG really isn't that different from the higher quality materials (like the hatchbox) I used consistently before I started missing a dime. It has a pretty nice matte finish that complements the DIY speakers I'm working on. I work with this material a lot as it has good strength and heat resistance, making it ideal for 3D printer components with heated cases. Below are some additional printing tips that may be helpful. Note. I use Slic3r because it's free and highly customizable. I print with a layer height of 0.3mm to save time on these larger objects. Funny, it also helps avoid stretching and over-extrusion, and I haven't had any issues with layer strength being compromised. 40 mm/s is usually optimal for PETG. Depending on the geometry of the object, you can try speeding it up to 50mm or 60mm, but this introduces more tension and can stall the extruder (this has happened to me several times). My starting temperature and speed is 255°C, which is the upper limit. what you should use for PETG and 20mm/s speed. This promotes adhesion of the initial layers, which is most important. Then it cools down to 240°C, which is the average value for this plastic. I use a really good glass heating stage up to 100°C with some superglue. Some people may say it's too hot but in my experience it was perfect and never had any flaws or warping. Adhesion is great and really helps when printing large objects on a large surface with little elevation change. At lower temperatures, the plastic will eventually pull towards the object as it hardens and may tear off at the edges. It helps with that. Retraction settings are generally the most important for PETG. Every printer has its own special place. I am using a BMG direct drive clone extruder and a 3mm draw length to reduce tension. Anything outside of these limits causes occasional congestion, and anything below can add to the tension factor. The 30mm/s speed seems to work well with this length in my setup. If you drive fast, you may encounter problems like the ones mentioned. Using a Z-Lift after each layer height slightly increases print time, but also helps reduce stress. If you have a high traverse speed that is higher than the print speed, for example 100mm/s, then you will not have problems with the filament melting at the hot end when retracted. In particular, Slic3r has a setting to prevent retraction when the distance from one point to another is too small, and this can help avoid smudges on detailed objects where many small extrusion points meet in a dense space. I've uploaded a screenshot of these settings if you'd like a link. Your fan cooler should be configured. Everyone's cooling setting is different, but I got lucky at around 45%. These settings usually work with other filaments like PLA and ABS. Just set the temperature differently.