Everyone recommended running the first layer a little hotter and a little slower, which I did. Nozzle 217°, bed temperature 67°. Adhesion: Best I've seen from any filament I've worked with and I SPECIFICALLY used Duramik because it had the best adhesion in the PLA+ category. Print Quality: So I use the 0.8mm nozzle because it's significantly faster and significantly more powerful for prototyping purposes. While I don't typically get the best detail with a nozzle this size, and I also typically suffer from fairly high voltages when the flow and temperature aren't perfectly adjusted, I haven't had any of those issues with this filament yet - or rather, nothing that one quick repetition with a beak couldn't completely fix it. Durability and Heat Resistance: I 3D printed a Glock muzzle brake to test it against heat as well as shock and sudden pressure changes. I don't recommend using plastic for parts that are constantly exposed to ballistic environments (and definitely not doing anything illegal, folks), but as they say, the brake lasted 34 rounds in a row before the PLA+ started to lose stiffness and was malleable enough to be deformed by gravity. Even then it didn't separate from the carving when fired, so I guess that means something too. Whatever you print with this material will be VERY durable compared to regular PLA and so far the two prints I've made with this PLA+ have held up better than the Duramic PLA+ parts I've made in the past . This PLA+ feels less stiff and fragile than other brands but still has some pretty insane tensile strength. Plus, it's made right here in the US, in North Dakota. I don't care that it's a bit more expensive than what's made in China, I'll keep buying it 1) because it's obviously significantly better quality than Chinese PLA+ and 2) it's made by American contractors, not by Chinese slaves. and frankly, none of us should support slavery or fuel a totalitarian regime with our purchases. Buy an American, build an American, be an American
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