Review on 💡 Go Power! GP-SW3000-12: High Performance 3000-Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter for Optimal Power Output by Todd Markel

I am new to the solar installation group and I will prove it to you. I've watched hundreds of YouTube videos on the subject, but it's hard to find hard facts. It is difficult to decide who will provide accurate, complete and precise information. The learning curve is long and stressful for me. I suspect this has more to do with the lack of full product information available to newbies like me, so this criticism relates more to my shortcomings and Go Power proponents who can't provide full installation instructions because they're for the approval of the product, as well as anyone in the industry who promotes their products with confusing information. Kudos to those who have done a thorough job. I'm pretty sure I broke the green remote port on the back trying to figure out how to connect chassis ground because the set screw is blocked by the manual remote port connection that connects the remote Power switch has affected, now no longer work. I ordered a remote switch and the unit only stayed on as long as I pressed the switch. Then I got the impression that the model that replaces model B doesn't work with my old GP3000. I've spoken to a few dealers who said they don't even stock the Model B switch that Go Power says is required for this device because it's no longer made. (This is a 2016 product that nobody else makes) so you're getting an R model replacing the B model. So I thought it was just not compatible. I spoke to Go Power customer service but wasn't sure if I damaged the green connector at the time but I think they knew and just didn't want to do it. I'm pretty sure I broke it. Of course this is probably basic soldering, which I'm very good at, but getting into the unit is difficult and voids the warranty, so you'll have to wait. Connections needed with the heavier gp 3000 pure sine wave inverter The system I am aiming for is 7 amps x 6 panels connected in parallel = 42 amps of current. (Ouch.). This requires a fuse of at least 50 amps. Nobody but the grid providers has a 4/0 wire or clamp for a 12 volt inverter kit. I had to buy a wire cutter big enough to cut 3/8 inch wire and a crimping tool. Incidentally, this cable does not fit/is too big to fit in the inverter fuse box that came with the installation kit and had to be cut to fit the hole. This block is a bit out of date. I recommend using the more expensive version of the IC (inverter/charger). I think this solves a lot of the wiring and fuse issues, or better yet, a loadless box that comes in two flavors, one that's firmly fixed to your needs. or the one with a dual 20 amp outlet (both included in my old model). Ever since I dived into this project, I've been doing it step by step. I have ordered the 120w Go portable power panels with an additional 10w and have used them successfully. (Ashamed?). The back of the panels says "extra 10W", which comes with a charge controller with Go Power or PWM pulse width charging. The 2000 model year One Solar controller has legacy connections to your computer. It tracks your usage and adjusts your charging frequency. (I'm still sticking to Out Back or Nigh Force.) Today is the first day I've fully utilized the small launch system on the MPPT controller. It works as expected this morning in full cloud and this morning in light snow and it consistently achieved 17-20 volts from the PV panels and held a minimum of 12.21 volts on our 4 x Duracell Deep Cycle 230 Ah batteries (go You with Trojan T105 if you can find one that hasn't been in the window for months.) And all while plugging in our entertainment system, the We Boost, a 2TB WD USB flash drive, a Sony Blue Ray players and a Sony soundbar and a Hisense Roku 43-inch flat-screen TV connected to the network and an Apple TV within an hour or two. The bottom line is that the entire industry seems to be focused on 48 volt systems. That's the focus, probably for a very good reason. Need wire sizes and more industry support for solar panel selection.