Review on K2140 Evolution Drilled Slotted Ceramic by Mark Powell

So I had a brake noise that indicated my pads had worn through on my '98 trailer. I went to a store that wanted $200 for an aftermarket pad replacement (not a bad price). I thought about it and decided on this set. For around $160 you can get good pads and new slotted and ported rotors. I don't believe all the hype about slotted and ported rotors, but I think they look nice and could cost over $160 without pads. On a trailer it's about 45 minutes part time work with a decent jack. I also had an impact wrench to remove the tire lugs which saved me an extra few minutes. This kit does not contain any brake oil or grease that you do not apply to the friction portion of the pads. I installed mine with no oil and had no problems, but ideally the piston side needs some lubrication (mine still had some lube on it so I was feeling fine). In any case, remove the tabs and two 10mm bolts holding the back of the caliper (wear rubber gloves, your hands will get blackened from the brake dust). Then use a bungee cord and hook one end to the caliper and the other to the strut spring to take the tension off the brake line (wire sling works too). Now remove the outer padding (note how it came about) and leave the inner padding. At this point you have a choice: open the outlet valve or. What I did was just remove the cap from the brake fluid. under the hood. You don't want to create too much back pressure so drive very slowly unless you bleed the lines (ideally you should bleed the lines and put in new brake fluid, I didn't feel like doing that and didn't want you to have the extra time to to bleed the lines while a friend pulls on the brake, so I did it like I did. I'm not suggesting you do it my way, but if you do it you don't need to bleed lines or change fluid) . Expect liquid to leak from res. Have a towel ready. Now you need to re-tighten the old inner pad and backing of the caliper with a large "C" clamp. This pushes the piston back down to make room for the new thicker pads (drive very slowly or you could damage the ABS due to back pressure). (Move fully with flap C and plunger). Now you can remove the clamp and pull out the old block. You should now be able to remove the old rotors (possibly with a hammer blow) and install the new rotors and pads. Then screw in the caliper, put the tire and cap on the liquid (check the level) and do the same on the other side. THESE GASKETS MUST FIT. That means they sound like S*** until you accelerate them from 40mph to 5mph, repeat 3-4 times, then repeat 25-5mph. You have to heat them up, this will cause a reaction in the resin of the pads (which you can feel). Once this is done, they will fall off completely. Mine brakes perfectly and sounds absolutely quiet. One star deducted because they are made in China as printed on everything. Although the quality seemed good to me, not the best but certainly good enough for a van with 200,000 miles on it. Holds up very well with these brakes. And maybe. don't they get that hot when drilling holes/grooves? Well, nothing hurts, and they look very sporty. Add some red caliper paint. and you have a beautiful fake racing set. Hope that helps.