Review on MICTUNING Wiring Harness for LED Light Bar Off-Road Power with 40A Relay Fuse and ON-Off Switch (2 Lead) by Jessie Zdunich

I bought this to use with the 50w LED bar on my ATV. I liked the idea of a relay, fuse, lighted switch, etc. The only reason to use a relay is to control a high current device with a low current supply. At 50W, my flashlight draws only 4.2 amps (50W/12V). I doubt this switch can handle 4 amps continuously, so the relay is used to control the load. The problem with this harness is that the switch is battery powered so the red/green lights are always on. Even if the light is off (red) and the key is off, the indicator stays on. which ultimately drains your battery no matter what anyone says. What it should have been was that for the high current load the relay had to go through the fuse to the battery. and the switch power would need to have a wire that could be connected to an ignition source that only turns on when the key is on. Thus a high current light load could be controlled by a switch through a fuse, but only when the key was on. Key off = all lights off, key on = turn on red or green light depending on whether lightbar (load) is on or off. That would be the right operation for everyone. If someone didn't care if the battery died, they could connect the relay power and switch the power and tie it to the battery, or for the rest of us who don't want dead batteries, they could tie the relay to the battery and the Switch on ignition (accessory). I would give this pendant 5 stars if implemented correctly. but now I have to change the new suspension, which was almost right. What you need to do is cut off the big white wire on the pigtail that goes to the switch (on the relay side of the connector). Don't use the big white wire from the relay to the switch (it's connected directly to the battery, which keeps the switch's light always on). Now instead connect the big white wire from the plug to any 12V source that will only turn on when the key is on. This way your light bar and switch indicators only work when the key is on. When the key is off, the lightbar and switch indicators will not illuminate and the battery will not drain. This also saves on the switch plug so the switch can be easily replaced later if it fails etc. without the need for more splicing etc. You almost got it right but it still costs $10 to swap and make changes.Everything what it really takes is to just disconnect the white wire from the relay and leave 3 legs or so that either the battery can be tied to the red wire. or cut off the ring terminal and connect it to an auxiliary power supply. it's pretty easy to get it perfect.