Update: I changed the slicing configuration to increase the temperature and slow down the speed according to the spec provided by Polymaker. I also left the coil in my dehumidifier for more than 10 hours on the maximum setting, which is still below the recommended drying temperature of 80Β°C. I've cleaned my sheet steel, added margins to my prints, and calibrated the printer. The prints came out a little better, but I did notice some warping, so I might have to be more aggressive with ABS mud or glue. I know ABS is notorious for warping, it's just that I never had any problems until using this brand. Each manufacturer has slightly different filament compositions, so this is probably an artifact. If it can handle conditions that other ABS threads can't then I would consider that a fair compromise. I just printed a new fan cover that can withstand high temperatures that other ABS filaments can't handle, so I'll see how it compares. Since I bought the powder coated print bed for my MK3 I haven't had to use any material to improve adhesion and that goes for all brands and types of filament I've used - PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG. Although the part itself did not detach from the hot stage, it did not have sufficient adhesion to prevent warping. All four corners deformed after about 45 layers. I printed at the recommended temperatures and speeds, and I have the case so you can rule them out as potential culprits. I've also noticed that parts of the print are discoloring from dark black to light gray and it is in these areas that the warping occurs. They recommend using build tek but in my opinion my powder coated sheet metal should work better. I'll change the settings and print some size parts and if it still suffers from a lot of warping I'll send it back because it's more expensive than other brands I've had no problems with. Three stars for now, will update as I try different settings and come to a conclusion.
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