Review on 🔧 Evapo-Rust: 1 Gallon Super Safe Water-Based Rust Remover -Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, Gray, ER012 by Mondreka Rosenhoover

I love my old Toyota Land Cruisers but over 30+ years they have rusted in some really nasty places. I'm not a fan of those rust converter paints because (1) I doubt they really stop rust and (2) they still leave ugly, uneven surfaces. But it's impossible to stick wire or sandpaper in all the books and cracks in engine accessory mounts, seat mounts, etc, and I don't have access to a sandblaster. What's a guy supposed to do? So I tried it with high hopes but not much confidence that it would work. It not only works, IT WORKS GREAT! The instructions say to leave the parts submerged for a few hours. Personally, I first soak the parts in a large jar of water saturated with Dawn Cleaner for a day or two, shaking the jar when I think about it to shake off any stuck grease and grime, peeling paint, wasp nests and all. A toothbrush will also come in handy here. Once the part is reasonably clean and rinsed, I drop it into the smallest container possible (to avoid evaporative rust) and pour the evaporative grid in until it's completely submerged in water. Cover it with a lid and leave it alone. It's not instant. Learn to be patient. Depending on how bad it was, you'll start seeing clean bare metal within 30 minutes to a few hours, but don't get too nervous. If you think about it, slosh the reservoir to get fresh liquid into the crevices of the part. Slightly rusted parts are clean in one to three hours. Heavier rust lasts longer. Sometimes I fill an old cheeseball jar with nuts, bolts, screws, brake line fittings, washers and anything that isn't good enough to be reused in trucks, and turning the jar upside down from time to time can take two days until it's done you'll be ready. Everything is clear. The more dirt, paint, and rust on the part, the longer it will take. Whatever the reactive rust removal chemical is, it will be used up and no longer work. For very, very heavy rust that makes the fluid cloudy and rough after a few days of soaking, you may need to dump the old stuff, rinse the part, and soak it again to finish the job. Important: IT WORKS! Your parts come out of bare metal, even in holes you could never otherwise clean. It will NOT remove well-adhered paint, nor will it magically replace corroded metal. But to clean steel parts from corrosion, this is just a bomb. NOTE: It will dull or remove the beautiful burnt or zinc coating on the parts, so don't put anything in it that you don't want to remove. It should go without saying that electrical parts should not be immersed in liquids. So don't do it. The instructions suggest rinsing the parts with water and then submerging them in clean evaporative grate to preserve them. This really works, and you have to do something pretty quick after stripping the parts because now bare steel and damp air are touching. Things I don't use right away I dip in clean Evapo grate and let it dry. They get slightly sticky after drying, but don't rust for a while. months when stored indoors. The things I want to paint I wash in very hot water, dry as best I can and put the pieces in an air-conditioned room (for lower humidity) to air dry. Paint or coat soon, because surface rust loves bare metal.