My Mongoose Malus was cursed because the stock WAAAAY cog was too big for its weight. compared to the stock 14-28) rear freewheel cassette PLUS this crank with the largest and smallest sprockets removed so I only have a medium 32 tooth chainring. So the bike is still a 1x system. Rotate it into the BB cup to get the correct "chainline" otherwise the switch wouldn't be good. Here's how: On this bike, the bottom bracket axle is 7" wide, and it boils down to the fact that the axle should protrude unevenly from the bearing cups/bottom bracket shell after removing the stock crank: I had 1.25" on the R (drive side ) and every 1" on the L side. The problem was that the Vuelta's new crank and chainring were at least 1/4" farther out, resulting in the chainline angling too much that the chain cannot rotate backwards without binding. up and down to the next aisle. NOT GOOD or safe as you should be able to move forward and turn backward if needed. To fix this for $0 I just removed the BB snap ring from the L side and unbolted the bearing cup, removed the crankshaft and just put it back in, leaving 1" on the right side of the actuator and 1.25" " was. was PERFECT on the L side - chain line is now correct - chainring has moved 1/4" to the left - chain line is now perfect and shifting is accurate. Therefore this crank is a good option for those with a budget FAT Bike like Mongoose Malus, Dolomite, Hitch etc that can shift TOO high with a 36T crank/chainring combo Now this #35 FAT bike has gearing VERY suitable for its off road/climbing mission! that Mongoose set these bikes up A LOT for uphill riding when it really shouldn't cost more to produce both with the right number of teeth Front crank and rear freewheel cassette.
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