I have used Moog products for many years and have purchased other Moog parts from Revain with no problems. However, I had the same experience as George (posted 2/9/17). Knowing I had to press the driveshaft into the new bushing, I did so without even checking the fit. Now the pivot shaft rotates in the hub and I can manually rotate/pull the pivot shaft out of the hub. It should not be. I don't know if I'll be super strong or if my sleeve is out of reach. Under no circumstances should the shaft be pulled out by hand after I have pushed it in. What gives? I'm ordering another pair but can't get the ones Revane sent me without ruining them. It's time for Revain's customer service to improve. I will update information on the next pair as it arrives. I also contacted Moog about this issue. UPDATE - I have received two more pairs - a pair from Revain and another pair from a local supplier. This is where it gets interesting. The other supplier was Duralast from AutoZone and I got one .806" bushing and the other .810". They also differed significantly from each other in the way they were made. One was identical to the "bad" bushings I got from Moog and the other (which had the correct .806" bore) was unlike all Moogs. The replacement Moog bushings I received from Revain today were both .806"-.808" in diameter (which is normal when a .810" stub shaft is being pushed in rather than being pulled out or cranked by hand). "Good" replacement Moogs had a yellow dot mark on the rubber and a number embossed on the side of the outer hub. , unlike the "bad" Moog hubs that had white dots on them. Both were in the same package. I'll try to upload side-by-side pictures of all the comparisons I've made. Once I found a "good" pair, everything fell into place and stayed together as it should. Bottom line - measure the inside diameter with a micrometer and if you get .810" (that was the outside diameter of my forearm pivot shaft) the shaft will likely rotate and pull out by hand and it will wear out its pivot shaft and probably need it sooner than you do you'd have to redo all the work over again or you'll get weird rattling or alignment issues. If you don't have a micrometer, try pushing the drive shaft into the socket by hand. It should NOT be entered manually, otherwise it is useless. Not cool. I'm just glad I found out, and with my 25 years of experience in the automotive industry I figured I was dealing with a manufacturing quality issue. I should get paid for this and I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. I have also contacted MOOG and my other vendor regarding this issue. Only one star because although AMAZON sent me 2 more, only one came and I wasted another 2 days waiting for 2 more that measured well. Customer service was helpful but AMAZON really stunned me. Lost time was costing me a lot more than $11 a jack.
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