Judging by the reviews this unit will work fine over time. I gave one star for lack of documentation. About the Wire Size: Reviews say it doesn't fit larger wires. Not true. It is suitable for wire gauges that significantly exceed the meter's current rating. Another nice feature is the presence of two standoffs that fit inside the block for smaller wires like 14 AWG. I believe it would be quite tricky to properly attach the device to smaller wires such as a power cord due to the two wire-penetrating screws. B. 14 AWG to connect. A smaller wire may come out of the center of the piercing screw (if you were a wire and a group of piercing machines approached you, you would also step away from the screw and let it pass you). You can use wire sizes from 4 to 6 AWG. Maybe even more. Using spacers with AWG 8 wire, the connection was perfect. Gaskets are included. There isn't even any documentation on what pads are for, let alone how to use them. Accuracy: Reviewers who have compared the actual kW consumption to known standards state that the device is accurate. It's great to know and I go with their findings. Accuracy: This device is designed for 60 Hz. But of course it also works with 50Hz. However, since cycles in Hertz are a measure of time, using the meter at 50 Hertz is likely to result in a 16 percent off kilowatt-hour reading. The counter has no settings for this. And of course, this isn't included in the non-existent documentation. Accuracy: If you connect both hot feet to the device (measuring 240 volts), all you measure will be 240 volts. Reading will be accurate. However, if you also have multiple 120V circuits, e.g. B. 1500 W. The 120 volt heating meter will not even see this consumption and the readings will be much lower than the real ones. The reason for this is that both legs of the cable must be live for the device to work. The device cannot see the current traction on just one leg. (The meter only measures two wires, there is no room for a neutral if you are measuring a typical house current set to a 240 volt supply). If you need to measure power consumption in 240 and 120V circuits, you will need to purchase additional meters. Since there is no documentation, you cannot find out. The counter appears to be working properly as it shows usage on 240 circuits. In this case, the meter readings are completely inaccurate and misleading. 120V Circuits Some reviews say that to measure 120V circuits you need to buy a separate 120V meter. At 120 volts it works fine. An "N" is stamped on the outside to indicate where to place the neutral wire and where to place the "L1" hot wire. The bottom line is that you should only use this meter if you know what you are doing. Not for security reasons, but to make reading meaningful. There are too many different scenarios for setting up your wiring to make it worth reading. If you are only measuring one item, e.g. B. an electric car charger, it works well if you install it in the right place - after all other devices.
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