I'll try to form an objective essment. 1. Do we need f/1.2? In film times, this was ofcomurse more relevant. But, aperture does not happen much, in any case. The only thing I donโt advise is to shoot outdoors where itโs inappropriate, i. E. in sunny weather, in fact, only for the sake of shooting outdoors. Because in the picture we get fragments with a purple border - transverse XA. Especially incomntrasting areas (white with black). By the way, the same thing can be observed on other fixes: 24/35/50mm - in all its glory. 2. Focusing speed. It is the slowest incomparison with ogues and other fixes. The focus ring travel is large - 2/3 of a full turn around its axis. However, we can ume that the horror story is exaggerated in practice, because. we do not need tocomnstantly change the shooting distance from the minimum to the horizon. That's. We shoot a portrait, the distance changes, say, in the range from 2 to 4 meters - the speed is enough! 3. Cut highlights on open (up to f / 2.5). It is noticeable when bright glare is out of focus - evening, flashlights and other situations. There is such. At 85 / 1.8 it is less pronounced, at 50L it is even more pronounced. By the way, the lens has nothing to do with it, the camera shaft cuts the glare. "Champion" in our system is 50/1.0. Do the people we film notice? Maybe. But I guess they don't give a damn about it. 4. Manual focus. It is not the same as on other lenses. We twist the ring, but the lens block is moved by an electric drive. In tactile terms, this is worse for feeling feedback, but you can focus with a light touch of your finger. In any case, manual focus is rarely required (or never) 5. Vignetting on open. I never fix! 6. Use on cropped cameras. Effectively, ofcomurse. Although, Iโll say right away that a bunch of FF + 135mm will give the best result! Icompare with such a bunch forcomparison, because crop + 85mm = EFR 136mm. . Jpg Mini-test (and those who want to save money):
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