Review on 🚗 TOPGRIL Mud Flaps Kit for Ford Escape 2020-2021: Guards Against Mud and Splashes - Front and Rear 4-PC Set by John Arsov

I knew there would be problems with this kit based on feedback from others but I knew I could handle it. Others who aren't as comfortable will have problems and may be better off looking elsewhere. The fenders themselves are well made, fit like a glove and are significantly cheaper than an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer). However, the instructions aren't even worth reading and the included screws and screwdrivers should be saved for another project - totally wrong for this app and unforgivable when this kit is dedicated to Escape 2020/2021! The rear end was really easy to assemble and with the wheels in place. The three OEM plastic buckles can be removed and reused. Use a screwdriver to gently pry up the center pin until it almost comes out, then pry off the clasp. Luckily I have a tool for this task. It looks like a screwdriver with a flattened end and a U-notch on the end that slides under the head of the pen. The center pin holds the fastener in place as it swells behind the hole in the car when pushed, like a drywall anchor. Lift the fender to align with the three holes and reinstall the push pins. There is a hole under the rear padding on the passenger side that matches the hole in the fender. You will need a bolt, two washers and a nut to attach the fender to the fairing. There is already a screw on the driver's side that holds the fender. For some reason this side has bolts and an extended liner while the passenger side only has holes and a short liner. This driver's side bolt threads into a jam nut above the fairing that stays in place when you loosen the bolt. Very easy one-way access. The front fenders are not that easy and the fender mount is poor due to the Ford mount. There are only two snap fasteners and the bottom one just attaches the original fairing to the fiberglass fender liner, does the job but is very cheap. Rotate the front wheel so you have good access to the area. Pry off the two plastic clips. Luckily I had a bag of similar fasteners that were longer and about the same diameter but fit the hole more tightly. I think the factory could be repurposed, but I wanted something more substantial to keep the flaps shut. There are no problems at the top. Lift the flap and reinsert the plastic latch. He climbed into a hole in a metal case, but like the ones on the back. Good and reliable connection. The lower one, as said, doesn't penetrate the metal but simply goes through a hole in the fiber wheel arch liner. I tried using a plastic fastener but couldn't get it to stay in the liner. It was next to impossible to get access to hold the liner in place to insert the buckle due to the fender shape interfering with the only access area of the liner underneath. When I managed to get through the fender, the fastener just broke out of the fender's hole as the fender was moved. I ended up getting a washer that just fitted the plastic clasp. I placed it behind the panel that the fender sits on and in front of the liner, over its opening, held it with my finger and effectively only attached the fender to the stock panel, not the liner. The lining just sits on the end of the clasp. The lack of clipping isn't a problem as the liner is held tight in that area anyway. It had a good firm grip on the fairing, but not enough to keep the fender from swaying. Unfortunately there is no closure at the bottom or at the back. I thought about drilling a small hole for a self tapping screw at the 6 o'clock position where it won't be visible to attach the fender to the plastic fairing. Since the car is only 3 days old I didn't want to make any holes! ;-). I went with a large bead of silicone sealant on the underside. I'm not sure how well this will hold the fender vibrations, but we'll see. Aquariums are plugged together with things! If it comes loose, the screw is the solution. Unfortunately the fender does not have enough flat surface to mount it with 3M tape. This is just a thin edge of the molding. The job took 45 minutes to an hour and now it's done, the fenders look almost like they came from the factory. They differ from the surface finish of the fenders and bumper, but close enough. Now we can reduce the amount of dirt thrown at the car! If you can handle the installation, I recommend mud flaps. They cost about $40 alone but would be amazing with the right hardware - FYI TOPGRIL!