I installed this on my 2007 GMC pickup that had one of the two horns out. Installation takes a little thought, but it's a chance to get creative. I was able to install the horns themselves in the EXISTING empty holes in the sheet metal between the radiator structure and the radiator grille, offset to the driver's side due to the weather and angled down/left/forward. The short hose was long enough to reach the compressor which was mounted in the hole I made on the sheet metal strip in front of the washer/battery. The compressor is located near the washer filler neck and the battery can be removed without moving the compressor. I used tape to connect the horn wire next to the horn (just below and in front of the washer reservoir), this actuates the primary part of the relay which is mounted on the fender wall between the battery and the fuse center. I bought an inline fuse with a few inches of 10 gauge wire on each end for a few bucks from a local auto parts store and used it to connect an auxiliary terminal on the front of the center of the fuse to the secondary of the relay. and ran a piece of 10 gauge wire from the relay and ground to the supercharger motor. It works in parallel with the factory horn. There is a split second delay between the factory horn and the air horn, and then both air horns don't sound at the same moment. I could disable the remaining supply horn, but when I lock the doors with the key fob, the delay prevents the chime from going off and waking the neighbors, but I get the standard beep when I press the button. I suspect if the hose is longer then the lag gets worse. For this reason train horn systems use compressors with reservoirs and solenoid valves to turn on the horns. Having a loading valve in the kit wouldn't fix the delay, but at least the sirens would work at the same instant (a split second after the relay switches). The bottom line is (finally) great value for money and the truck sounds like a truck.
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