I bought these to replace a clogged 0.4mm nozzle on my Kossel Pro. At first the only difference seemed to be that they were about 1.4mm taller than regular E3Dv6 tips, so recalibrating to the extra height wasn't a problem. However, the first 0.4 mm nozzle that I took out of the box immediately jammed. I then had some fun with one of the 1.0mm nozzles which reduced print times to a fraction of normal with minimal quality loss at 0.2mm layer height. However, when I switched back to the 0.4mm nozzle, it stuck after printing a few layers. I wasn't able to pinpoint the exact cause of the sticking, but when I disassembled the hot end I found that the block was loose and leaking from the top. The shorter thread of these nozzles means that the E3Dv6's thermal break does not impinge inside the block unless you rotate the thermal break so that the narrow part is inside the block, which breaks the design. Despite this, the heatsink is tightened on the block with 7mm threads that hold the heatsink in place, extracting heat from it and further breaking the design. And if you then screw the heatsink all the way in, it will also make contact with the block, damaging the structure as well. I think the heatsink could have been unscrewed a bit, but the narrow part of the heatsink is inside the block. If you leave the narrow part of the thermal break outside, it will not hold tightly in the block and will quickly disengage from the movement of the printhead and start leaking. Check out my photo to see what I mean. The heatsink screws fully into the block, and the heatsink touches the block. The white spot around the nozzle is duct tape. I use thread tape on the nozzle and a thermal break to stop leaks and it works well. I suspect these tips may work, I've used the 1.0mm tip for a couple of days with no problems, but thinner tips get stuck for some reason I can't explain. In short, I don't think this is a good choice if your 3D printer has an E3Dv6 style hotend.
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