Right off the bat I want to solve a problem that has been commented on by at least two PPLs. Broken tools/tools are "fragile" etc. I'll try to be "nice" here. These posters. I have been a professional wood carver for almost 50 years. I also teach (FREE) but do not allow any of my students to use any of my tools. I teach them for free but they must have their own carving tools. I recommend a special tool kit for beginners. because in my opinion. They're the best out there, inexpensive (10 tools, less than $100) and should last a lifetime with proper care. In all these years I have never broken anything except ONE tool. and it was 100% OWN to blame for my lack of experience and education (I'm self-taught, had to learn from experience). The instrument was of GREAT quality. There was no error in the device. The fault lay with the inexperienced idiot ME. And this is the truth. broken once. it's a complete loss. it doesn't fix it. I still have my broken one. I use it in my classes as an example of what NOT to do. These are CARVING tools. filigree and precise instruments that can achieve amazing things in patient, creative hands. But they are not shovels. and cannot be used as such. Try it and thin sharp edges can break, or even the shank of the tool itself can break! Straight tools are used exclusively for downward threading. If you really know what you're doing, everything can be used upside down (it's hard to explain without showing) and most can be used upside down as well, ie This can be tricky, but it's possible if you do certain things Take precautions to protect yourself from injury. taking certain precautions, and I stuck a 1 inch chisel in my left hand, clean to the bone, nearly cut off the main nerve of the index finger and rendered it useless for the rest of my life. ) ie carving tools as needed Sharp, and "You" are not as hard as wood or stone. The rule here is: IF, the tool jumps. Know EXACTLY what's on the other side of what you're cutting and don't let it be a hand or a knee. The universe only allows you so many close misses. and then your luck runs out. The reason my only tool broke is the same reason I don't let any student use any of my tools. Because an inexperienced PPL will sooner or later be inclined to try PRY with a tool. and destroying the tool is almost guaranteed. Whether wood or stone, bone or horn. ALWAYS cut out small chips. patiently. If it is not a chisel (a tool with a curved bottom). All straight instruments are used, straight down, straight up. when you need to pull out the tool. You are trying to delete too many at once. the tool must be free of wood (etc.) when the chips fly freely. The chisel works a little differently as it is designed for cavities. But,. They are also the most prone to edge breaking. when people try to use them like shovels. (This was a half inch wide notch where I snapped the edge) With the notch you make flat passes. No deeper than 1/16" chips (bigger notches on larger projects can handle thicker chips). I did not order these tools primarily for wood carving. I ordered them for amber and also for making/cutting soapstone molds for metal casting and then cutting end blocks of wood for printing on fabric and carving bones and horns. if you want to carve a WOOD. Contact me and I will point you in the same direction I point my carving students. I get no kickbacks from these instrument sales. I'll tell you what you need and you decide who to buy them for. Nonetheless,. My tools arrived this morning and I couldn't turn them into stone or amber. How do I know I'll like her? Because so far. My soapstone carving tools were nothing more than nails, and my amber tools were an edgy combination of nails and curved rasps. I am very happy to finally have a decent set of suitable tools for this purpose (I have ordered a second set of even smaller tools wrapped in silk cord for more delicate work. They also arrived this morning. A few more notes, .re .this one set.Leather sheath for her made from high quality leather (My mother was a professional leather carver).The leather wrapped tools themselves have an extra screw shape at the end of the tools for a good grip and precise control,for me this is a MUST, when I try to use them for carving smooth horn or horn/bone I look forward to planning new projects with them.
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