Review on 🔧 Tuff Torq Genuine OEM 19216899490 Pump Bearing Kit for K51 Transaxle - Reliable Replacement Component by Andrew Choukline

All the comments below sum it up, it's not hard just takes time! -- Before removing the old drive shaft, drain the old oil. I've heard that Tuff Torq now recommends 5w-50 oil. I couldn't find that viscosity so I used Mobil 15W-50. The Tuff Torq website has instructions on how to bleed the unit once everything is done. It's pretty easy too. About 3 hours of work in total from start to finish. And that's from a man who's never removed the transmission from a race car! In short, remove the cutting deck. Take a picture of the drive belt spacer (you'll thank me for that!), loosen the idler pulley with a ratchet/socket and remove the belt from the rear pulley on the transmission (mine was fairly new, installed last year so didn't need to be changed). I placed the mower's rear hitch on a rhino/wood block ramp to raise the rear wheels off the ground and blocked the front wheels. Remove the rear wheels, remove the brake rod (split pin) from the left side, remove the FNR lever from the right side. The freewheel that sticks out at the back can also be removed, I found this makes things a lot easier, it's held in place by a small friction cone ring, I removed it with pin socks but don't yank it so you can reuse it! Now everything is simple, 6 screws and you're done! The rear studs are slightly longer on one side than the other. I noticed this when reinstalling the transmission! Clean the transmission, I used a pressure washer but didn't go crazy. let it dry Now you need some good snap ring pliers. Remove fan/pulley and spacers. Pay attention to the order in which they go. Remove the oil plug (large plug) and twist it over a 5 gallon bucket to drain the old oil, then reinstall the plug to keep debris out of the transmission. We remove the rubber seal on the input shaft, remove the large C-bolt, put a pair of vises on the shaft and hit it with a hammer. It didn't take too much strength. Insert the spring (somewhat fiddly) and put on the new shaft. I used an 8 inch piece of pipe, put a piece of wood on top and tapped the bearing. Filled in Mobil 5W-50 about 1" below the hole, reinstalled filter (cleaned, spring on and cap on. Reinstalled on tractor. Block flushed (Flushing instructions on Tuff Torq website). WORKS LIKE NEW If I could, then you can too!