Review on 🖨️ Enhanced Printing Filament Connector Accessories Material by Rushabh Gonsales

The whole principle of this device is that it is a heated clamp that heats, melts and re-hardens the threaded connection. The work is entirely manual, meaning you are responsible for determining heat-up time, filament placement, and cool-down time. Basically you turn on the built in switch and allow the element to heat up for about 3 minutes and then turn it off. switch before inserting the filament. Note. There is no indicator light to show the device is on - you just need to know that flipping the switch forward to the device is 'on'. I had to find that out by testing the heat directly - luckily no burns. Second, gently insert the ends of the thread into the jaws and try to align them by hand so they meet in the middle. It's a little fiddly and will likely benefit from extra clamps to hold the thread in place. The block is spring loaded so you have to use one hand to hold the jaws open. Third, gently pinch the ends of the thread so that they fuse in the die clamp. You can't really see what you're doing here, so don't be surprised if you go too far and squint a little (see my photo for my first try). It takes very little effort to feel the movement of the filament, and if you get it right you get a pretty clean connection (my second try). Finally, let the threads cool in the sponges for 4-5 MINUTES. That's right, it should take 5-10 minutes to connect, so plan ahead if you're doing this on the spur of the moment before you run out of thread. Also, spend a few extra minutes checking for burrs and smoothness (they provide sandpaper if you need it). The examples of welds above were made using PLA, with green being a color-changing thread and red being silk. They were both quite old and brittle, and I was able to break the second weld right at the seam with little effort. The "ugly" was stronger first and broke the thread before the weld broke. However, I would say the strength is sufficient for my straight extruder setup and would probably work for a bowden extrusion setup as well, although with this connection you won't be able to handle cold drafts or the resistance of your stepper motor too overcome. My parting thought is that this will work fine in the occasional situation where I need to splice materials together, but due to the time involved, this isn't a significant advantage over just watching the machine and threading a second thread. manually - it takes about the same time.