If you have a Chevy/Workhorse P30 style Class A chassis (independent front suspension, coil spring pads, typically narrow front track) then you probably are a gear-damned parking lot AutoParken brake. The large yellow "Parking Brake" button to the left of the steering wheel is the control button. There are older versions that still have a foot pedal, but some only have a yellow switch. AutoPark is a spring-loaded drum brake that grips the driveshaft until a hydraulic pump relieves pressure from those pads and lets them move. This switch is part of the control of this mechanism. It often fails due to very high operating pressure and hydraulic fluid leaking through the diaphragm of this switch, rendering the system useless. Like the air brakes on a large drill, AutoPark WILL NOT ACTIVATE. In the best-case scenario, the brake will work as soon as you turn off the power until the system is repaired. Worst case scenario, the parking brake will engage while driving and, depending on how quickly it's applied, will either start burning the AutoPark pads and drums or stop you in a big hurry. (I don't know how fast). Once you stop, you'll be stuck until you fix AutoPark or mechanically disable it by pulling a cotter pin under the van - a task best left to the AAA guy. Please note that your motorhome will not work without AutoPark. "Park" in the transmission selector so you better have leveling jacks or jack stands, wheel chocks and someone stepping on the brakes, or the RV may start rolling if someone else is underneath when AutoPark is mechanically disabled. Keeping this derailleur on board as a spare is cheap insurance that can save you from being stranded if/when your AutoPark breaks down. Not all failures are related to this switch, but this is said to be the most common cause. It can be replaced fairly quickly by someone who can get to the control box, which is usually found under the van along the frame. Giving credit where credit should be: OldUsedBear is de facto the guru of AutoPark!
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