I have used this make/model of switches several times in my home and have had great luck. Setting: power switch1-switch2-light. Auxiliary switch DOES NOT CLOSE like a simple switch. The diagram was a little confusing to me (where they labeled the light load) but looking back at how it had to be set up it makes sense. So. You need to check your current wiring system and figure out which switch is getting power. If you can't, hire someone. So the switched on switch is your main smart switch (not this add-on). The second switch will be this extra switch. The additional switch requires a neutral connection and requires catenary from the first connected switch. The load line from the first switch is connected directly to the line input of the lamp. Please note that this is not the same as traditional wiring. Why? So basically, the side switch sends a "signal" through a contact wire to the main switch, which then turns on the light. Boom is ready. A special note about LED compatibility and these smart switches: you need the wattage in your circuit. I think it's 25W-35W? So, due to the lack of power, not all LEDs will work with this circuit. Second, dimming LEDs differs from dimming incandescent bulbs. This is due to differences in electronic components. Therefore, not all LED designs are compatible with this switch. I think I saw in another review that this is a TRIAC dimmer. You will see flickering in all dimming ranges if that is your problem. If you only see flickering near the maximum or minimum dimming level, you can adjust the maximum and minimum switching values so that you do not get into the flickering level. Because of these two issues, I was unable to use this pair of models with my modified 4 inch halo light. Dimmable white 60W round recessed ceiling light (RA404930WHR). I will have to use them elsewhere in the house as I bought them so long ago. For these lights I bought an Inovelli dimmer and it works fine. This additional dimmer did not work on my Inovelli dimmer with my LED setup.
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