For practical use I would give this unit 4 or maybe 5 stars. For the design (probably in Asia) I would give it one. Please read on because if you are new to stereo installations you might run into some problems with this design. The good things first: After conversion and installation, the case looks good, feels solid and should work quite well. I'm a little wary of the flip cover, but where it's installed it won't get in the way of knees and elbows. So from the start, make sure you have sandpaper or a fine file like my device. The faceplate that your DIN mount slides through will likely need to be modified. It's a DIN standard hole, but the burr on the plastic molding kept my case from sliding inward until I sanded it vigorously to widen and flatten the corners. Once the chassis is in the case, it's time to connect the back panel to the stereo's wires. This makes the unit technically more waterproof, but adds an extra step as you need to connect the stereo harness wires to the back of the case and then reconnect to power and speaker ground. A really bad design flaw on the back is that there is no wire to connect the amp remotely (usually the blue wire). It has two sets of pre-outs and all other wires. Another nasty design flaw that you'll spot if you're not careful is that the cable on the back that comes out of the case (and inside) isn't color-coded by default. Most car radios are standard four color with a black stripe for the negative. Not in this block. You just have to be careful which speakers you connect to the cable on the back. You should then use a Dremel or other fine sanding tool to make room for the remote cable that will run from the receiver to your amp. That's both good and bad. It was a bit more work than I expected, but after "fixing" it looks really good.
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