Review on 🔧 Enhance Vehicle Stability with Whiteline KCA399 Rear Control Arm Bushing in Sleek Black Finish by Keith Desjarlais

Requires a press to remove old bushings. They're also easy to press with a decent vise. Lubricate WELL and then add additional lubricant. Or they squeak and you have to take them apart and re-lube them. You really need a press to get the old bushings out, you can get the rubber part out but the metal bushing needs a pretty good press. A 20-ton HF soil press, which costs around $150-$160 according to the coupon, really makes the job easier. To reattach the lever, I bolted the inner end of the lever to the subframe. I then used a jack on the rotor head to push it up and back. When he was close I used a long pry bar and lifted the outside of the wishbone using the back of the subframe for leverage. After aligning a hole and inserting the bolt, I pushed the other side with a pry bar and tapped the bolt with a hammer until it went through. Sounds harder than it is, and the first few times it was PITA. But once I found out, it wasn't bad. I've noticed that if I put the screws through the front of the car to the back on either side, they stay in place. Otherwise, the adjustment shifts. EDIT 6/22/16: Okay, I took it apart 3 times and oiled it now. They have about six months and then they start squeaking terribly. I used a ton of anti-seize compound this time. One side still squeaks a bit but that's a lot better and I'm hoping the anti-seize gets better into the socket or something and it stops. But how long? I'm so tempted to get Megan Racing adjustable rear upper arms but people say bad things about Megan Racing. But there's so much squeaking with these bushings, and even at maximum camber, that it's hardly normal.