Review on 🌬️ Enhanced Cooling Solution: BIGTREETECH Direct Extruder Heatsink Upgrade by Matt Conner

☆☆Update at the end of the review☆☆☆☆I printed my new Double Blower for E3V2. Printed the internal parts of a jet engine. NOTE: YOU NEED TO REACH IT TO 260 WITH SOME THREAD IN IT THEN TIGHTEN THIS NOZZLE. RETIGHTEN AFTER FIRST PRESSURE. Also note that it doesn't sit at the exact same height as your stock hotend. You need to adjust the BL or CR touch settings. Your filament cooler air duct may not be installed at the correct height. Be careful before you start printing. I believe that you need to be patient, understanding and attentive when modifying such a complex device as an FDM printer. You wouldn't put new tires on the tundra and just drive away. They should be balanced, filled and torqued to your vehicle's specs, and checked for gaps before jumping onto the freeway. Overall this is a great mod in my Ender••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• •••••••••• •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• ••••••••••• ••••• I watched a video on youtube of Microswiss installation and noticed that the nozzle and thermal break are NOT flush on the block. I added 2 small 2mm washers between the two items in the block. This allows them not to stop before touching and allows them to press against each other's hard surfaces (not the aluminum block) and prevent them from breaking away from the block. I suppose you could also slightly submerge the m6 hole on the nozzle side by about half a millimeter or so to align the back end of the nozzle and the thermal break. Tighten again after heating. Maybe tap the block with a grinder for a few minutes to wear it down about 0.5mm. The key was to get the thermal break firmly on the block, then add the shims and nozzle, heat it up, turn it down on the nozzle, set the Z offset and compensate. , print, relax, enjoy. Follow me to learn more about printing. And be sure to like and subscribe. LAUGH OUT LOUD