Review on Denso 234 4015 Oxygen Sensor by Mayrando Clark

I had the infamous P0440 along with other codes on my 2002 Lexus IS300 which turned out to be a low flow sensor for bank 1 sensor 2 or b1s2. After reading about the sensor problem I decided to go with the plug n play version and not the generic sensor which requires cutting and splicing. I've done this in the past with great success, but I just wanted to get it done quickly and the Denso 234-4015 is a direct OEM replacement. Denso is probably the main supplier of all imported JDM vehicles. So much so that most of it comes installed from the factory. In any case, if you encounter a problem with the O2 sensor, it is recommended to replace both the upstream and downstream sensors. That means if one of the sensors on bank 1 is bad, swap both sensors 1 and 2. This way you can keep your catalytic converter from failing. It also helps send the correct information back to your computer for an optimized result. Imagine your new sensor collecting and sending out the right signals while your old (but good) sensor is way off the mark. Your computer recalculates and sends incorrect output. The recommended sensor for Bank 1 Sensor 1 is Denso 234-4626 which I also bought and replaced. Please make your own O2 sensors! You will save a lot of money! Rent a FREE OEM O2 sensor tool and 1/2" 2ft impact bar from Autozone and do it yourself. It comes with a complete sensor with the correct connector and anti-seize lube. So no splicing or soldering is required. It's plug and play, if you can't understand it then there's a problem. Remember that if you replace both sensors, the longer one goes to the lower one. Instructions: Disconnect both O2 connectors by pressing on the clip and slowly spreading them apart. Do not use force as the plastic parts may be around 15 years old and brittle. Then spray with a PB blaster if you have one instead of just warming the car up to normal temperature and letting it sit for 5 minutes. Then rotate the O2 sensor using the tool and the broken rod. Remember that your exhaust manifold(s) will still be hot, so don't burn yourself. After removal, apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the sensor and screw it back into place. Not 100% of the torque specs, but it should be like an oil plug that screws in. Do not exceed torque, just enough to be hand tightened without applying force or backing. After: I cleared all codes and it works again. My fuel economy has improved a bit and I have no complaints.