Review on AKM F150 Front Leveling 2004 2018 by Santiago Serrano

Bought for 2019 f150, Crew 4x4, 3.5Ecoboost. Yes, the kit fit, the truck leveled and wow, that's drastic! If you are looking at this kit, I will first say a few words about the other posts. 1. In my case the studs fit well as do the rear blocks, maybe there is too much paint on the block racks but they fit. U-bolt mounted to size.2. At the front, you've seen videos on YouTube. This kit is big so I found some tricks on 18-19 trucks. The wheel speed sensor can be disconnected in the shaft, these are the gray connectors. Fol Open the hood and follow the wire from the bottom up, the driver's side is just under the brake booster and the passenger's side is next to another connector next to the main wiring harness in the wheel wells. Second, remove the rubber hoses that go to the 4x4 hub on top of the spindle. Then be sure to remove the center axle nut, stabilizer bar nut, steering nut and brake caliper. Use a rubber band or strong wire to support the caliper. Remove the 10mm and 8mm bolts on the steering knuckle holding the vacuum sensor and wheel sensor wiring. Pull the boom tethers on the frame for the same vacuum gauge and wheel speed. Remove the lower shock bolts. Now remove the upper arm screw. My truck is very new so I didn't have to hit any of the joints, they all popped out at once. Here are the last two tips: If you pull the rack out, you will remount it 180 degrees. You can just swap them left to right, or yes, you can actually move the bottom bracket to tilt it the other way, so mine mounted on my no-vise vise. I found that the stand screws lined up perfectly with the screw holes in my vise stand. I put the nuts on some string, gave them a little nudge, and they moved quite easily. The last thing you have to do is install them. Take the assembled rack with the gasket screwed on. Fasten it in your pocket all the way, pay attention to 3 slots. Once this is done you will need two 3 foot bars, pipes, jack stands or whatever else you can think of. You take one and place it between your forearm and its thin metal rod. You need to place the other bar under the post between the two screws, lower the bottom arm down and push the other bar up to insert the screws into the holes. Trust me, if you can get help, do it. And not your 13-year-old who weighs 90 pounds. You can do it yourself, but it's difficult as you have to use your body weight to push your arm down. To be clear, I'm very mechanically inclined and have air tools, the front took me about 2.5 hours to do each side. The first page takes the most time, but the second page goes by pretty quickly. As for the rear, if you have small jacks like in the orange cargo ports, they won't be high enough. I set them to 6x6 to preserve distance. You can stack a couple of 2x6s about 4-5 inches and you'll be fine. Put a piece of wood on your jack and lift it under the pumpkin. I supported the back of the truck by the frame behind the cab just before it flexed. The back is easy and if you have a grinder it will make your life a lot easier. Unscrew the nuts. In addition, the 22 mm ratchet socket wrench also makes this work easier. Lift the nuts as high as possible. This is with a 22mm butt, but a 22mm socket would be easier. Also comes with instructions. The quality of this kit is top notch. It's huge and definitely lifts a truck. Truck with the kit fully installed looks like the front is higher than the rear. Ride it until the springs reset. Very happy with this kit so far. Simply mount 295-70r18 Maxxis onto the stock wheels, NO spacers required!