I watched some YouTube videos about installing a Felpro monoblock and saw that blue clamp pins were used somewhere in the side rails when I installed the cleat set. leave open for wringer pins. I installed the studs and then proceeded to installing the studs, they only fit in 5/16" corner positions. Well hell. So I put in other bolts and the gasket was hanging off the bolts just enough to lift the pan. So no big deal. The pan fit well enough that you just had to press down with your hand to start the nuts. I tightened the bolts to spec and continued going over them until they stopped creeping. It was about four or five full turns of all fasteners. I read reviews from other users saying they had small leaks until they unscrewed the cap again so I may have avoided having to check for a leak. The grommets around the gasket holes worked very well to avoid over-squeezing that could destroy the gasket, so I didn't worry about my tightening method. The front and rear spacer arches appeared to be well designed. They had molded locators that centered themselves on the pallet. I'll give it about a week and edit this review. At this point I can't think of an easier way to replace a car's oil pan gasket. The absence of sealant is a major benefit when working overhead. Trust the design of this gasket and only use a 1/4 inch section of silicone in the areas indicated in the instructions. If you wipe down the pan rails with brake cleaner or paint thinner you won't have any problems! The material used for the seal is very high quality and elastic, which gave him confidence. I ordered another one piece gasket from another manufacturer to ensure I had it the day of my scheduled installation. I turned out to be trash in many ways. The material was plastic and hard without the high-torque pads that the Fel-Pro pad has. Don't fall for imitations! Grab the Fel-Pro and follow the instructions to tee off.
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