A new pump has arrived and I have installed it. I tried to start the boat but there are no dice. Performed all necessary tests as before to isolate the problem. Good 12V for pumping. The pump is connected directly to the battery and there is no fuel flow or fuel pressure. So I took everything apart a second time and tested the close coupled pump on the dyno and the pump seemed to work. So I reinstalled the pump in the VST tank, but this time I used the OEM wiring harness instead of the new wiring harness that came with the pump. Bench tested the pump with a VST tank connector and this time the pump seemed to work. install as directed in the sealant instructions. Installed the VST tank on the intake and engine but not tightened everything, reconnected all fuel line connections. I then used the factory recommended fuel check procedure to make sure I didn't have any leaks from the fuel fittings. procedure, you will need to consult the factory manual or find it online. ----------------------- ------------------------ --- ------------------ Everything looked fine, so I tightened all the screws, checked all the sensor connections, and worked it up to the point where I could test it, even with the Fuel gauge to fill it up completely. Turned the key and tried to start the engine, started immediately and ran fine. .In the end the new pump worked but the included wiring harness didn't so here is my advice to you. If you buy this pump, test it on the workbench before doing any installation work. First connect the pump to the 12V power supply and check it. Make sure you connect 12V+ and 12V- correctly. Turn on the device for just a few seconds. If the new pump turns, install it in the VST tank and then test it again before sealing the VST tank, but I suggest you use a volt/ohmmeter in continuous mode to test the connections first to be sure you know the difference between the 12V+ and 12V - terminals on your VST tank connector. Apply power for a few seconds. With the pump running, complete the rest of the installation to the point where you can check the motor. If the engine starts, everything is fine. go. At this point there should be no problem starting your engine unless you have other problems with your ECU or sensor connections. DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PUMP YET BECAUSE I DON'T KNOW HOW RELIABLE IT WILL BE AND THE CABLE SUPPLIED WAS POOR. --------------------- I recommend that you use the original short wiring harness to install the new pump as the new connectors/harnesses did not work and with the mine sent pump never worked. The packaging was sealed and everything on the pump they sent me looked like new. Another point: the newly included wiring harness is longer than the original wiring harness and is stiff, which makes it difficult to install on the VST tank. The harness failure caused me a lot of extra work, but I had to bench test everything before sealing the VST case and installing everything. Don't be like me and just install it without testing a dyno first. I have not checked the fuel pressure generated as I do not have a proper pressure gauge or fuel pressure checking system. at full speed, but accelerated it to 3000 rpm and held it at that level, and the engine ran smoothly. It needs to be tested in the water under load at full speed and at full speed before I can say it works great as an OEM pump. If I encounter any reliability issues I will update this review. own these new injection engines. If you need a new high pressure fuel pump, it's probably because your boat has boiled over with fuel in the VST tank. If you look at the connectors on the bottom of the VST tank you can see the fuel drain system. You probably didn't know about this fuel drain system because you didn't see it until you removed the under cowling from the intake side of your engine. Of course your dealer didn't warn you about this fuel drain system because they make many thousands of dollars from people like you and me for not properly draining all the fuel from this VST tank. This causes the high pressure pump to fail due to old fuel clogging the pump and possibly the fuel pressure regulator. Thousands of dollars to fix this problem with all parts needed, OEM cost of 400.00 for pump and labor. A nice deal for him and the easy money he makes from you just by not informing you to empty the VST tank. Silence is "gold" for him, but not for you. I figured all I had to do was pull the fuel nipple out of my engine at the dock and let the engine idle and then I could stow my boat and engine. INCORRECT. You will need to remove the bottom cover and drain the water from the VST tank if you want to store the boat and engine properly. I drilled 2 holes in the lower case so I could put a screwdriver in there and get at the drain plug. without having to remove the bottom cover. The bottom hole allows the drain hose to come out of the lower hood to prevent fuel from the VST tank draining into the hood. This simple mod allows me to "easily" drain all the fuel from my engine before storing my boat and knowing I don't have to buy another high pressure fuel pump and go through it all over again. ---------- Almost every outboard motor brand uses the same VST tank design and has the same type of VST tank drain system. So this exact drain procedure should work for Suzuki DF series engines as well as Yamaha, Mercuries and all other engines. So ask your friends who run another type of engine if they really know how to drain all the fuel from their outboard motor. If they say "of course" just dry it and store the boat/motor, you might be saying WRONG. You need to drain your fuel injection system this way and help them find fuel injection chart online. Point out the VST tank drain in their system and tell them how and why they need to drain that VST tank or else they could go through their boats not starting and get replaced by a pump like me and you ? BE A MAN and spread the word about the need to drain any fuel injected outboard VST tank before storing the boat/engine. After telling your buddies, let them buy pizza and beer as they owe you everything.
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