First off, for the money this is a really great machine! It can actually produce an output voltage of 0-30V when the input voltage is above 5V, and there are no noticeable delays or problems when exceeding the input voltage threshold. I bought this to use an 18v tool battery for a soldering station. and mobile energy. I often connect 12v and 24v devices at work so being able to use a power supply to convert 18v to 12v and 24v was really amazing! First, the voltage and current settings are behind the display, which is odd. This means it will be panel mounted. where you can not put pots for current and voltage devices. So it should be a CC/CV battery charger or fixed voltage output, not a regulated power supply. OK. I would prefer if they make a similar block with a button on the front like other cheap adjustable power supplies you can get, but for the price I can handle it. It's a 47K bank for 10 rounds. I soldered my own potentiometers to the outside of the unit so I could adjust the voltage on the fly. This device provides accurate and stable voltage wherever you install it. Cons: It doesn't tell you what CC or CV levels are set, you just have to find out after turning the unit on. This can be dangerous as you don't know what voltage is set until you turn on the output and you have to use a dummy load to set the CC value. It sucks, but for the price I can handle it. The main disadvantage is that the output signal is very unstable under load! I'm trying to power a TS100 soldering iron. Yes, that's on the edge of the rated output power, but actually it's not! When the TS100 tries to turn on, the voltage drops drastically causing the TS100 to go nuts and restart. I'm using a 19V output and the TS100 draws about 2.1A for a short time, which is within the 4 Amps and 50W of the 35W peak supported by this unit. I connected it to the oscilloscope and the voltage drops. by about 40% when the TS100 tries to heat up! In the photos, the iron is at a stable temperature, so it's only drawing about 0.4 amps on average (PWM of course), but every time the heating element turns on (which happens several times a second), the voltage drops to 13 or 14 volts ! This is after I added a 1000uF capacitor to try and smooth it out. Ultimately, that makes this device almost unusable for me. With constant load it works perfectly. When I manually applied an 8 ohm load, the voltage dropped about 30% for about 100 milliseconds and then stabilized. But for use as a dedicated regulated power supply, it just isn't suited for anything that draws more than 1 amp.
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