Review on LOYALHEARTDY Pneumatic Dispenser Transmission 14PcsFiller by Matt Lewis

This unit is really well put together. My only two complaints are that the eject/eject label is upside down (I was ready to return it after spending about half an hour trying to figure out what I did wrong) and it can be difficult to get into the tank to empty completely. There's really no practical way to clean the inside other than soaking up some degreaser and then spreading it out, and again with water. So if you want to drain the engine oil and then need to refill the transmission, it might be questionable. The lid is permanently closed and there is no access to the inside of the bottle. It's opaque so you can't see where the pickup tube is. I plan on installing a ball valve at the bottom so I can just pressurize the unit, tilt it, and open the valve to drain all the old fluid. . It's not really faster than traditional methods (maybe it would be if you had a 240v supercharger), but it's cleaner and you don't have to risk your life under the car. Better for the environment, better for your back, knees and safety, better for your schedule. This block uses a fair bit of air. I would probably recommend a compressor with at least 4 SCFM @ 90psi. My device has an output of 1.2 hours. Cube feet per minute and can run about 30psi and then I have to turn it off for a few minutes to maintain the duty cycle (don't ignore your compressor's duty cycle which is based on 10 minutes in America). % duty cycle means 4 minutes on and 6 minutes off). Only about 30 minutes for 8 liters of oil. Unfortunately for my car, the unit leaves 1.8 liters (1.9 qt) of oil. Whether this device releases all the oil is not the fault of the product, but depends on the design of the oil pan. Some cars are bone dry afterwards, others only have half the oil left. It all depends on whether the dipstick tube can reach the bottom of the oil pan. The car has to be designed for that. As a general rule, the higher the amount of oil, the better. 1 liter of leftover oil is much worse (20%) in a 5 liter system than in a 10 liter system (10%). Also remember that draining the oil is a factory procedure on many European models, so you'll generally have better luck on Benz, BMW, Volkswagen, MINI, Porsche, Volvo, etc. However, this can be wrong even with residual oil. a problem if you stick to a stricter oil change schedule. MATHEMATICAL WARNING For example: if the manufacturer requires a replacement every 10,000 miles, but you change it every 5,000; and if there is 20% oil left after each change; then at 10,000 you have 4% of the oil from 10,000 miles ago, 16% of the oil from 10,000 and 80% of the oil from 5,000. Average oil miles at 10,000 with full initial flush is 6,000 miles before change (compared to 10,000 is better), 1,200 miles after change (compared to 0 - worse), and then at 20,000 the average oil miles is 6,240 before change, 1 248 after exchange. change. These numbers will accumulate and increase more and more slowly. How do you quantify this impact on your car? I do not know. Send your oil to a lab for analysis, $20-$40, analyze the molecular breakdown and decide if it's good enough for your taste. Your car, your choice. The point is that your average oil age will never be 0, but it will also never be as high as it is with standard changes. If this product encourages you to change it more often, it could potentially be very beneficial for your engine despite the oil residue. You can switch between extracts and standard changes. Some cars will probably leave 5-10% if you use the drain plug anyway. Nothing comes out from under your drain plug. Study your car model and find out what people are saying and thinking about what makes you feel good. To test this yourself, first decide how much oil you're happy to leave before measuring (to avoid bias). 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%? Decide. The more often you change, the less influence the residual oil has. Personally, the default interval changes - 10% - would probably bother me. Half spacing changes - I wouldn't worry about 20%. Then simply use the product and when it stops drawing oil, remove the drain plug and measure how much oil has come out. Divide this by total performance. For example: 1 liter from the cork after 4 liters in the extractor equals 1/(1+4) = 20% (80% recovery). The moral of the story is that the more oil you have left, the sooner you should change it. Weigh your choice. This puller makes your job 10% easier, but you need to change your oil 20% more often? This is a pure minus. What if the job is 50% easier but requires 20% more changes? If this benefit is worth more than $110 to you, you win. Rate each factor that you can provide. Do you like oil changes or don't you like them? Are you afraid of lying under a car? Are you dirty, if so do you hate cleaning up spilled oil? Do you like being the only guy on the street who looks like he's at peak performance while everyone else is stuck under the car cursing the actions of Jiffy's students Lube?POWER OFF To dry the suction hoses, I plug them in together and hang the flexible hose quick coupling on the highest point. Open the valve (lever on the line). Wait for all liquid to drain into the rigid tubing, approximately 20 minutes. Disconnect and install the rigid hose, center up, and drain both ends for a few hours. You can also just take an adapter and connect it to a compressor to blow it out.