Review on Squeeeeek No More Counter Snap for Joists - Starter Pack Kit (Part # 3154) by Michael Finnegan

I live in a 66 year old house and have successfully stopped the squeaks myself in most key areas. I couldn't stop the two creaks because they were right between the joists. All in all, bars really work once you find them! I had to use more screws than I did and to avoid squeaking I needed more. While these screws can be "fabulous", I decided against them because I wanted to minimize the holes in the floor. I gave these screws 5 stars because they served their purpose; They stopped every creaking beam and broken screw. This review is long but I am writing all this to help you based on my experience. Each screw snaps out 1/4" below the bottom, great for later sanding and refinishing. If you buy them, start by buying a long 1/8" drill bit and a good stud locator/wall scanner. I have hundreds of drill bits, but they are not long enough to drill the 3-1/4 inch diameter holes specified in the instructions. I bought a 6" long 1/8" drill bit and it worked great. I also used a good wall scanner. with which I have been successful. I still missed the beam about half the time and I'll explain why later in the review. took a lot of time to make this project. It takes patience and time. After marking the ratchets, I used my wall scanner to locate the joists. My wall scanner detects metal in the floor. He basically found that the nails were hammered into the subfloor and 3/4 inch oak floor. I had to figure out what's what. I used a tape measure and painters tape to mark/measure some suspect areas. Beams are typically 16 inches on center. My first mistake was experimenting in the closet off my hallway, where it squeaked the most. I wanted to practice where the holes weren't visible, but later found that there was a main steel support between the closet and the hallway. Girders, so the girders are swapped on both sides of the steel girder. After two misses, I found a beam in the hallway. You'll know when you hit one because the bit offers resistance through the entire 3-1/4" deep bit. I also checked each hole with a metal bail to make sure I'm hitting the joist. Another tip: I marked mine with a 3-1/4" drill bit to get the right depth every time. Sometimes the joists were 14" or 18" centered, depending on duct work, plumbing, and other considerations. I had an advantage: Half of my basement was unfinished, so in case of a miss, I stuck a coat hanger in the hole and looked inside cavity of the joist in the basement to see how far I got.You can also check the holes next to or under the paneling to make it more unobtrusive.Most of my squeaks were where the two ends of the plank met.I placed those Screw successfully on the long board next to them. When I finally drilled the screw, I drilled it about a half" through the wood and into the metal latch. Then I put my feet on either side of the adapter and screw turned. I put on socks, to stress and suppress the squeak to the maximum.There is a loud click each time the screw is loosened.Each screw was screwed 1/4" into the Ho lz sunk. The creaking is no more! There is no creaking in the immediate vicinity of the screws. Board the hole hiding it, but I didn't trust that because of the old brittle wood in my house, so I pre-drilled it anyway and you wouldn't even notice. light furniture, touch them with a marker. You may even notice it. My wife didn't want me to poke holes in the floor and didn't even realize I did it. I decided against it, but overall I'm very happy with this product!