Piece of excrement. The compressible seal is only as thick as a rubber band. The nuts on the bottom rest on the plastic to tighten. They don't tell you how tight to tighten, I expected a snug fit with a "gasket" to be tight enough. If you overtighten the gasket will slip out of the grooves and you won't be able to get it out without tearing the plastic around the nuts on the bottom. I started installing and found that the old pipe wasn't quite straight. I corrected it when tightening, but I noticed that this flange, which is supposed to be bolted to the floor, has countersunk screw holes. That's when I decided to remove some wooden spacers and put them underneath. It didn't come out as easily as it went in; it didn't "retract" fully before the nuts were wedged as if they were cross-threaded. I tried loosening the last of the three with a socket on the end of the nut but it got stuck. Too much force and the bolt broke off along with the nut. I use something similar in my line of work called a well seal and they are actually cheaper, metal and the seal/seal is full cross section. I bought this because it was in stock and my toilet was disassembled and my original toilet flange was rusted to powder and glued to the ABS pipe. This article is a good fix for that, but just horribly done. Of course I may not have installed it expertly, but rubber band sized gaskets and plastic mounting nuts should be avoided.
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