96101KP Bowtie Grille Tailgate Emblem Review

I have a 13 year old pickup truck and the adhesive on the rear decal was peeling off. I saw them on the internet and decided to change the logo myself. You did the front and back in about an hour, everything is fine!

Emblem Poor fit The front was great but the back wasn't curved properly and the four strips of tape holding it to the truck came loose on the first wash. I just folded it and used like a handyman 3m double sided tape all over but not the fact that I bought duct tape to secure the back.

So, as I said, the front one isn't a perfect fit, but it won't be noticeable once it's in place. I didn't take the risk with the double-sided tape on the back emblem. These things are very expensive. Heck, that's why I had to buy a better quality 3M tape for the back. They look great but seem expensive compared to the same product for newer models. It should probably be four stars.

They appear to be really well made. A little heavier than the originals and they look really good! It was actually easy to swap. I bought a 3m piece of double sided tape for the tailgate as it only arrived with 2 small strips and I felt it wasn't enough. The front butterfly has screws but didn't need to be drilled, when adjusted properly slides perfectly. I hope they are long lasting because I love the new look.

Silverado 2011. The average is 4 stars because I rate the quality and appearance of the emblems at 5 and the fit at 3. The front doesn't quite match the grille, it's just a bit big and doesn't sit in the recess. . The rear badge does not have a recess on the back for attaching the ribbon like the original part and therefore protrudes from the sheet metal by the width of the ribbon when installed. It's not really an issue other than aesthetics. As other buyers have noted, there are only 4 small…

The front is easy to install. It doesn't quite match the factory emblem. It's a bit bigger, which is why I only gave it 4 stars. Although it looks ok. The front emblem is screwed on after you remove the factory part with a flat head screwdriver. Just be careful not to over tighten. I tightened it by hand and then twisted it with pliers. The rear emblem is a little tricky. You will need to use either a heat gun or a blow dryer to loosen the factory glue. If you overheat it you will damage the…

The holes made in the front for the cleats were pathetic, I screwed both back on, one cleat was "threaded" so it didn't go in the hole fits the side, if not have you tried the back piece too, would it really be too much to ask to at least completely seal the perimeter with electrical tape instead of 4 small pieces? I had some extra tape so I taped the back side. Keep in mind that with those big untaped gaps, you're going to get water and dirt between the body and emblem and slowly eat away at…