Dorman 03133 M10-1.5 x 62mm Exhaust Stud Kit for Compatible Models Review

I just wanted nuts so I searched and bought them. To my surprise, the nuts had different threads, so I went the long way and removed the rusty bolts and recut the flanges. Once I did that, everything went like clockwork. These rivets will rust just like the old ones, but they are very well constructed. No witches on the ends, but who wants to take them apart again? Anyway, great product worked well for my 2010 Chevy Tahoe Z71.

Just what I need to replace bent and warped studs on my 1996 Chevy K1500 4x4 exhaust on a Vortec 350 confused to clarify for anyone trying to figure out the answer, it's for the manifold to the Y-pipe (on the outlet side of the exhaust manifold). Everyone has their own method but I recommend getting a Channellock 410 kit if you don't already have it https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-410-8-Inch-Capacity-2-Inch/dp/ B000189GQK amount of penetrating oil and then use channellocks to tighten them.

Worked great on my 2001 Chevy Suburban 5.3L LS1. These bolts are for the flanged end of the exhaust manifold towards the catalytic converter and O2 sensors. I rethreaded the exhaust manifold flange as rust in the threaded hole is making this new bolt difficult to install. Do not force this screw in, if it goes in easily, you may tear off this screw. At Harbor Freight Tools you can buy a thread cutter cheaply. After that it was easy to screw in a new screw. To remove an old bolt if it hasn't…

Had to replace one of the three studs in the driver side manifold. Some kind of jack pulled the nut and completely stripped the thread. I had to stand upside down and cut the bobby pin with a grinder/cutter wheel. The other two were taut but separated. On a collector on a workbench (woman's flower bed) I cut off the back end of the stud flush with the flange with a grinder. Then I cut the long side of the bolt down to about 1/4" and weld on the nut. On the first try the nut came loose. Welded…