🔒 Dorman Door Lock Striker - Enhancing Security for Compatible Models Review

I tried adjusting the latch pin and replaced the door pins. That was my problem all along. Couldn't find a suitable bushing replacement locally and this complete kit wasn't too expensive. So the whole set has been replaced and I don't have to slam the door anymore. Ideal!

I used your kit on a GM truck that had a little gear drag. The factory plastic bushing on these firing pins would eventually wear out and fall off, as many of them often do. They were the perfect replacement and now allow the door to close tightly.

BUY THESE SCREWS! The doors of my '84 K10 never closed easily until I put them on. I used to have to slam them shut to fully engage. Now closing the doors is almost effortless. Now it looks like a much newer truck!

This is a great replacement for the old original door latches. The doors of my 86 C10 sagged and had to be slammed shut, and even then there was an ugly gap. These racquets solved sagging and tearing problems. Cheap and easy repair for my classic!

This part number is for Chevrolet. I was amazed at how easy it was to remove the old one and replace it with this one. Now I get a very nice light closing of the doors with a hard "click" when I close the door very gently. You no longer need to repeatedly open, close, open, close to close the door tightly.

I am slowly restoring a 1984 Chevrolet C10 pickup and one of my first projects was replacing the worn door handle screws on the driver and passenger side. The originals lost the plastic collar and you actually had to slam the doors to get them to close properly. A word of caution; You will need to remove the audio speakers to access and hold the rear retaining clip while replacing the locking bolt. It's not difficult, just an important step to avoid losing the clamp at the back.

Since the shim is not removable from factory or replacement, it is quite difficult to separate multiple PEXs and place them on the hasp. It's much easier to just mark where the old ones are and leave the 'nut' on the back (if it's open or maybe hidden by trim - Blazers and Suburbans can be hidden and 'locked up' will). Simply mark the spot that doesn't fix the problem, remove the old one, install the new one, and use rubbing alcohol to erase the Sharpie mark if it bothers you. It's also a good…

What can I say? This is a bolt. Had initial installation problems (1986 Chevy C10) due to what appeared to be a loose bracket that these bolts screwed into and when I removed the old one I heard the bracket drop into the body. I had to remove the speaker to remove the screw BUT that is absolutely not the fault of this product; just found it worth mentioning. Otherwise, the only problem came when I realized I didn't have a large enough allen wrench to tighten it (again, this isn't the product's…