🔐 Dorman 931-208: Door Lock Actuator Motor - Reliable and Efficient Review

This door lock has let me down twice. Both failed simultaneously in 8 months of use. The only saving grace is that it comes with a lifetime guarantee, which you absolutely must take advantage of.

This part is defective. does not close properly and one of the screws broke before it was tightened. missing parts also that we had to remove the old part to make it work. Very disappointed. Don't waste money. Will return.

Great replacement drive for my 2000 Chevy Silverado LT. This is for the driver's door and has three electrical connections. The only problem is that one of the plastic joints is too big for the lock shaft. I had to use the connector from my original.

Well, it works. Kind of, but it even hits the firing pin with a little adjustment. For me it was very inconsistent initially and I had to double block and check if it was blocked. Blocked after a few days of use! (not sure what happened). Now it works fine and you can still hear a slight click when it doesn't hit the right spot, but it snaps and closes. So maybe it's just the noise.

I replaced my broken door latch with this Dorman unit and it works great. It was a little tricky putting all the poles back together. Note: Remove the latch assembly with the pins attached, then position onto the new latch and install as a unit. The hardest part is attaching the bar to the outside doorknob, you have to climb through the hook on the side of the door above the latch.

Works fine and does not stick, but the tab holding the threaded rod outside did not lock so an old tab and tongue with a hole (plastic) had to be used Another rod on the outside of the key lock is too wide so the bar doesn't stay in place and I can't open the door with the key. The old one could not be used because it was damaged during removal. If I hadn't thrown the box away, I would have sent it back. Glad my keychain works.

The plastic mounts are not very good. One broke during assembly, even though I was careful. The other was too big for the metal rod, so I welded on the end of the rod and sanded it down to a new, larger size. I had no problem slamming the door, it closed as before. The part seemed a little flimsy, but so did the OEM part I removed. I don't like the unlock button dangling so freely in the door, but I suspect it's just poor design and/or poor engine lever design (too much slop).