🔧 Lisle 41970 Pitman Arm Puller - Heavy Duty Tool Specifically Designed for Ford Vehicles Review

Worked like a charm after trying everything in the garage. BFH, pickle fork, etc. This little guy pulled my arm out of a '94 Toyota Pitman with ease. Just don't twist that thing, you might break your arm. You make it good and tight and hit the bipod arm (the part around the wedges) with a hammer, then twist the puller a little and hit it again. It will show up. The people who broke these things twirled and twirled until they broke. Key step is a small punch with BFH

I used this tool on my 2001 F-350. I've searched all over my area for a rental puller but couldn't find one large enough to do the job. You need a large puller for the Super Duty bipod arms. In the end I gave up and bought this product. I have been very pleased with the performance and results of using this puller. I put it in place and used an impact wrench to turn the bolt, pushing the crank out fairly easily with little effort. although it's possible that I had broken a couple of splined…

Order from Revain (Prime) to ensure you get a legitimate Lisle puller (make sure it comes on a sealed card with a stamp so you know it has it is a real McCoy). Looks like some got fakes. If you're paying $10 for an instrument worth over $20, that hopefully tells you that you probably won't get Lisle. However, this puller did the job on the stock lever on a '86 CJ7. This lever was fused to the output shaft. Broke my old trusty puller trying to get that arm off. Didn't think I'd ever rip my arm…

This is the handle puller you need when you have a super job. You may have to unbolt the steering box from the frame, which isn't a big deal. I also have a truck crawler swingarm that had to be removed because it got in the way. This is a great price for this product, although I would recommend it. I also recommend if you have a hand torch, heat the manipulator just because it will expand before using this puller. You can also put some lube on the stock which will make it easier to loosen…

Used it on my 90 f-250 and it worked fine, one from the parts store didn't fit my arm. The threads on the bottom of the bolt were torn out of the box, had to be unscrewed far enough to put it on my hand. This is cheap junk, don't expect quality at this price point, you won't get dozens of uses from these pullers. If you want a better tool, make a much better $300 fork puller. I bought these because I don't expect to have to pull a lot of cranks in the future. Oh, and a tip, don't use air tools…

This tool successfully turned off my 2006 F350 4x4 6.0 Powerstroke. I have an 8" Procomp lift that uses a lowered crank. I had to remove my old steering box with the connecting rod attached. In my particular situation, this tool didn't slip between the two pieces, so I carefully closed the space between the box and the share with a Had to clean grinder. I only removed about 1/16" of material. After that I lubricated the threads of this device and it found its place. I did not use a percussion…

I have a 2003 Ford F-350 and as other reviews have said this bipod arm puller does not fit between the bipod arm and the factory look power steering gear. I had to grind a small amount of metal from the bottom of the puller to fit where I want it to work. I felt confident doing this as the puller is quite thick to begin with and was still strong enough after I removed the metal. The reason I went this route is that a bipod arm puller that works out of the box was a lot more expensive. Note…

. They are also problematic with an identical Ford Fusion or Mercury Milan. If you own one of these cars and attempt to replace the lower control arms, you will find that the metal bushing that mates the ball joint to the steering knuckle often comes out of the steering knuckle which is caught on the ball joint pivot. Unfortunately, these sockets are not included in the scope of delivery. new controls. New bushings can be purchased for $11 to $20 each, but since you may need up to four per…

I originally bought this to replace the steering gear on a friend's '91 Jeep but ended up not needing to use it. I used it to loosen the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends - basically everything except the bipod arm! We've all banged a ball joint or tie rod end with a big fat hammer and caused all sorts of destruction. And when the hammer doesn't work, you build contraptions with bottle jacks and an even bigger hammer and just cause more destruction. And when that doesn't work, you do