🔄 SHIMANO Centerlock to 6-Bolt Rotor Adapter Black - Efficient Conversion for Any Size Review

Very easy to install. I used this to convert the centerlock rotors to 6 bolt rotors. IMPORTANT: You must have a Hollowtech II bottom bracket tool or other external bottom bracket tool. This tool is needed to tighten the retaining ring (pictured right). I bought a Park Tool BBT-9 for this purpose.

Very disappointed with this product from Shimano who are usually very careful with their belongings. The screws supplied with the adapter have very small Torx heads (T10). I took 2 off of 6 when tightening them. I had to use a dremel to score the head to remove it with a flat head. I don't understand at all why they couldn't use the T25 like any other 6-bolt rotor.

Purchased to fit some Avid brake discs. The rotors are rated at 55 in-lb on 6 bolts, but this adapter comes with non-replaceable T10 M5 x 10mm extra thin bolts which are much weaker than regular T25 rotor bolts. T10 can only be tightened with a maximum torque of 3.8 Nm (34 in-lb), which is almost 40% less. Also, you can't use standard T25 bolts because the Shimano locking ring won't engage the hub's threads without extra-thin bolts. .After one of the bolts gave out (broke) when tightened to 55…

This worked great for fitting a 6-bolt Ashima rotor to the rear of my wife's Mavic Crossmax SSC SL centerlock wheels. The rotor was perfectly centered and I didn't have to adjust the caliper at all NOTE FOLLOWING 1) The adapter only moves in one direction. So unless it slides straight onto the lungs, DO NOT TAKE THE POWER. turn it to the other side. 2) The lock ring does not use normal Shimano cassette lock ring tool. A Shimano TL-FC3 special tool is required. This is the bottom bracket tool. I

I needed a new centerlock adapter to replace an aluminum Bontrager I unbolted after probably replacing my third rotor (I ride 20-40 miles a day to work). They didn't loosen from cross-threads, at least that's what I've found, but simply from too many removal/installation cycles with a calibrated torque wrench (for the final tightening step after manual threading). Before I got to 40nM, the resistance just went down to zero. When removing, small pieces of thread came out. I was concerned these…