I highly recommend the Ximimark audio jack to convert headphones from a fixed cord to a detachable one. I've used Ximimark on my Audio Technica ATH-M50 and Audio Technica ATH-AD900 and have had great results. I've had them for 6 months now and am still very happy with their performance. The nature of these modifications requires modification of the headphones in most cases. In my case I had to grind and cut parts of the headphones to fit the plug and also to have the wires in a more natural position after soldering them to the plug. I've added some very brief notes at the end as well as photos of the setup. Includes: Four 3.5mm TRS (3-pin) panel mount audio connectors. Each with a hexagon nut for attachment. Pros: - Clean, understated visual design, easily integrates with headphones. - Simple, strong attachment system - provides a secure connection when an auxiliary cable is connected to it. another similar built-in block. Things to note (no real cons): There is no documentation whatsoever with the product, so before soldering it is a good idea to verify that you are connecting the correct wire to the correct terminal. The rear contact design increases the length of the device. Therefore, installation may require additional headphone modifications compared to other contact designs. Note that while the diagram shows the socket width as 7mm, I've found that the threads used for the locking nut make the thickness look more like 7.85mm. Installation: The device is inserted into the 7.85mm hole and held in place with the supplied screw on the hex nut at the opposite end of the hole. The maximum material thickness that can be sustained when the thread just reaches the hex nut is 2.38mm. The pins are on the back of the device. I had no problem soldering the existing wires to the three new terminals. There's plenty of room to work, and each connector has a hole for extra mechanical strength when mated. In both cases, the installation required enlarging the existing hole left by the cable. Grinding a larger hole was easy for the M50 because it's plastic, but the AD900 uses metal, which is more difficult to grind and generates heat, limiting my speed. Once the hole was made, I set about creating enough room in the earcups to allow the bushings to lay flat without putting pressure on them. There are great tutorials online that explain in much more detail, but I'm including a few photos to give you an idea of how I approached this issue.
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