I tried to reproduce the beverage can holder shown on the right out of WOOD PLA. The dead print on the left is as far as this thread has ever been. I tried using the included temperature guide, although it differed from every PLA filament I've used. If it worked at all, it was only for a short time before clogging the hot end. And I mean FENCE! Unfortunately this company has to make other types of PLA that are good as the reviews don't reflect how bad wood filament really is. I noticed this rating "feature" with other filament manufacturers. Make 31 sorts, one poop. Ratings are distorted. I understand. Well I actually bought it. Recommend a range of 170-190v. After adjusting all of their "recommended" timings, the best result I got was 200c. But he pulled terribly so I lowered it from 4s to 196s. shutdown in 10 minutes. Events? SPIRITED? To be honest it's useless. We're talking about a resinous, sticky slurry in the hot end that clogs the Bowden tube and nozzle. The second time it took me over an hour to clear the traffic jam. Two jets are gone. Here's the real bottom line: while it worked like a charm, the wood effect is minimal at best. Not worth the trouble. Grab your sandpaper with your favorite brown PLA, voila: WOOD. My Geetech Silk Silver PLA is now getting free power again and I have no intention of ever reloading wood based PLA. removed, cigar munching duck hood decoration by Convoy/Death Proof.
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