Review on 🔧 Fumoto Original F104N Engine Oil Drain Valve with LC-10 Lever Clip - Improved SEO, 1 Pack by Scott Lavimodiere

I installed a Fumoto F104N engine oil drain valve on a 2017 Ram 5500. 3 times. The statement I kept seeing in the information was "DON'T TIGHTEN TOO MUCH". The literature said it should be tightened to 18 ft.lbs. However, I didn't have the tools to use a torque wrench on this valve body. I also noticed that this valve does not have a rubber O-ring. It is more of a solid upholstery material. I drained the oil, installed the valve with the gasket using an adjustable wrench, and estimated when I reached 18 ft-lbs of torque. I thought that was the end. I poured 3 gallons of oil and noticed a slow dripping leak after a few minutes. So I pushed the valve a little harder but it kept flowing. After reading the reviews and information on the website, I was afraid that I had overtightened the valve and damaged the gasket. I also found on the Fumoto website that they will send you a free gasket replacement. I called Fumoto and spoke to a very nice woman. At first she wanted to charge me a dollar, so I asked for two replacement pads. But then I mentioned that their website said it was free and they didn't charge me for anything. When the package arrived I found they had sent me two pads. Luckily I had to drain the oil to reinstall the valve. The valve was so convenient and easy to use. I wanted this valve to work. I removed the valve and reinstalled it by hand tightening and then an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn. It's still leaked! I don't think I've tried to tighten it any further. I noticed residue around the drain hole that was only a few sheets of paper thick. I don't know if it was just a build up of deposits or if it was some sort of sealant from the factory or previous owner. I was determined to make it work, and I knew if it didn't work this time, I would have to give up. I left the drain hole open to drain the remaining oil and went to the hardware store. I bought a paint and rust grinding wheel and a 3/4" open end wrench to use my torque wrench on the valve body. I went home and smoothed the area around the drain. I was glad I bought something to use with my drill press. Hand sanding would be a real pain. However, the round wheel was a little tricky to use with the precision. I wiped the area and by this time oil was no longer dripping from the drain hole. Then I put on the last gasket and hand-tightened the valve. I then used my torque wrench on my newly purchased crow's foot and torqued it to the specified 18 ft.lbs. I felt it was actually tighter than when it was installed the first two times. I put in a gallon of oil and watched it the next day. Miraculously it didn't leak. I don't know what the problem was with the first two installs. Maybe I didn't tighten it enough, maybe it was residue preventing the gasket from sealing, or maybe the problem came from installing an oil-contaminated gasket. I hope someone can learn from my experience. before contact with the seal. 2) Make sure the area around the drain hole is absolutely smooth. Hard padding is very unforgiving. 3) Be sure to move the valve to the open position. This will prevent the wrench from contacting and damaging the valve handle. 4) Obtain the correct tools to tighten the piston to specification. Also, remember that different models have different torque specifications, so make sure you're using the right one.