This unit replaces the 780W Quick and Hot Waterstone #5000 tank which was great! However, the 1300W power rating of this device is very problematic. In order to get 185-190F water for tea making, the heat control must be set to near maximum, resulting in a sound similar to that of a 747 on takeoff. The noise is like an old dishwasher. I'm 5,000 feet outside of Denver, so the boiling point of water is around 203 degrees Fahrenheit. My guess is that when the 780w unit was redesigned to run at 1300w, the physical size/surface area of the heating element has not increased, but the heating element is putting out 66% more power, resulting in more water being nearby the heater boils. Heating. Because the unit has an on/off thermostat, when new cold water enters the tank, the heater will run at full power of 1300W until the temperature at the thermostat equalises. The 780W device had the same thermal lag, but since its output power was lower, the thermal cycle was less severe. The 780-watt device never made a bubbling sound. The 780 watt Quick and Hot Waterstone #5000 burned out after 8 years of use. There was also a leak in the hot water connection which destroyed a cupboard shelf under the sink. (An external drain pan must be installed under this new unit.) Upon closer inspection, the internal tabs on the connector were broken, causing the hose to fail to engage the o-rings. The 1300w unit did not come with a replacement hot water hose connector. In the end I settled on a Parker Hannifin P6UC5 (Revain) 3/8" x 5/16" compression fitting rated at 212F. The benefit is that its o-rings push against the high temp/silicone hose when tightened. (Using an old Waterstone faucet) The 1300W model came with the same cold water inlet/press fittings as Waterstone, but I chose Parker Hannifin P4BU4 Fast & Tite polypropylene bulkhead connector fitting, 1/4" compression tube x 1/4" Compression is back at Revain. Another downside to the 1300w unit is that it needs its own circuit, while the older 780w 20amp Waterstone can use the same power supply as the canister at the switch. 1300w is just a bad idea. A 780W unit will bubble/drip water once after new cold water hits the tank and expands. A 1300W unit will gurgle for 4 or 5 heat cycles before the tank's temperature eventually stabilizes. There aren't many 780W units on the market, which I consider a real flaw. For some reason people choose 1300w vs 780 because 1300w is better because it heats up faster? -No. I am very dissatisfied with this purchase and would happily return it if a similar 780w unit were available. There are offers of 780w units from other brands, but some sellers bait and write in the fine print that the actual unit you're getting has been "upgraded" to 1300w. I decided to try living with this device for the sake of the environment (can't believe I said that). The bottom line is that this 1300W device doesn't perform well at altitude.
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