Review on BINSTAK Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bits: Flattening and Flawless Woodworking Cuts by Brandon Show

I use this along with a few others to make live edge tables etc including my own version of a live edge table filled with epoxy. All in all it works very well for me. The key is to turn the blades as soon as you think they may become dull. Otherwise you get tears, especially with curly hardwood. Replacement blades are cheap enough that you'll have to deal with a "mostly" sharp club. The bit is well balanced and I don't have any vibration even when approaching 18000 rpm. Now my Freud flat milling cutter has the slight vibration it had from the start. This was my first nozzle that I used to level the boards and while it cuts well, the vibration, although slight, causes problems with the final smoothing after pouring the epoxy. However, this nozzle is very smooth. Now when planing a pot I sometimes resort to a smaller diameter lure as it tends not to get the little nicks in the epoxy that a flat lure can. So overall I like it. but not sure what and how much better it could be. When leveling the board, make sure your router is actually parallel to the surface and you should get clean cuts. I built my sled and made provisions to align the sled side to side to avoid bulges or burrs in the cuts. I offset it slightly to leave a little rise between notches because if it dips a little at the exit it breaks and it's not easy to grind unlike a very weak flimsy comb.