Review on Revamp Your Cleaning Routine with OTC 6043 Blast-Vac Multipurpose Cleaning Gun by Iration Ahim

I drive a 2000 Jeep XJ Cherokee. Anyone familiar with them will tell you that they have cooling problems which if not addressed will destroy the cylinder head and eventually the engine. Mine was starting to get warm (the sensor lied to me) so the remedies were fine. coolant was. ok, it didn't look like coolant anymore. In fact, I saw a lot of rust-colored mush. If that wasn't a problem, then definitely. Getting rid of porridge can be done with the help of chemicals. It may not be. I was planning on flushing the heater core since I didn't have a heater in the winter, so I figured this might be my best first course. Along with the possible replacement of the water pump since it is the only thing that has not been replaced a few years ago. I came across this tool while searching for what I need. I've never seen anything like it and for $55 or so I thought it was worth it. Yes, I could probably do something for less money. But I don't have time to look for components. So here is what I bought. You will need a fitting for your air compressor, and if you don't have a pressure regulator, you should also buy one. I'll say I forgot to get the regulator and didn't seem hurt, but time will tell. The first thing I noticed after plugging it in was that I couldn't use the connected water shut-off. I haven't fiddled with pliers since my hose went off. I will play with this aspect later. This valve controls the flow of water, turn it on and water will flow into the pipes under pressure. Add air and it's obviously a lot stronger. Although the water is not as concentrated as in a pressure washer, it can be used for cleaning. The trigger controls the airflow. You can modulate the air pressure if you are careful instead of just turning it on or off. The working end has stepped steps that increase in diameter to accommodate most coolant hose sizes. There are ribs that help keep the hose in place under pressure. After draining the coolant, I removed the thermostat so it wouldn't interfere with the water flow. I will install a new one later. He did the job piece by piece. Starting with the heater, I connected the instrument to the output of the heater. The first thing I found is that you need to make sure the hose is fully installed. I also suggest tightening the clamps. Otherwise, you can drain the hose and take a bath. I let my hose run without pressure for a while and then started adding pressure. Flashes and some long periods. When the water was clear for a while, I moved on to the next step. I disconnected the upper and lower radiator hoses. The location of the bottom really didn't allow water to flow from that end, so I flushed from top to bottom by connecting the tool to the top hose. Many more brown things came out. I kept the lid on the radiator while rinsing to let all the water run off. After it cleared I reconnected the lower hose and heater hoses and repeated the flushing from the upper radiator hose. Lots of nasty brown mud came out again. This method works even without pressure. When flushing in this direction, water will come out of the upper coolant fitting. On my Jeep, that meant the water was sloshing off the side. A better prepared self would have something to control the outflowing water. Instead, my neighbors saw a geyser erupting from under my hood. Once the water ran clear I stuck the tool into the coolant filler neck and ran the water in the opposite direction to what I had just done. I couldn't see what was coming out that easily, but it didn't look discolored. I used a tool to fill the cooling system with water and put everything back together. I also cleaned up the engine compartment. Considering it doesn't have a thermostat at the moment, I started it and let the engine warm up to temperature. Even in our current heat, it took a while to warm up due to the lack of a thermostat. Took a jeep for a drive around the countryside to see what he was doing. In addition to the dashboard gauge, I monitor the temperature through the OBD port. Prolonged idling with air conditioning at a generated temperature of about 210, while previously it reached 250, the air temperature was about 90. In travel mode, the temperature dropped to 195 or below. I've been lucky enough to drop below 230 in cruise before. In general, while succeeding. I will replace the thermostat and fill it with real coolant after working for a while. One thing I would do differently is to use a short hose around the heater when flushing the engine. There is no need to slide things back into the heater core.