Review on 💡 22in White WenineStar Ceiling Fan with Dimmable Lights, Remote Control, and Enclosed Caged LED Fixture - Ideal for Low Profile Ceiling Rooms, Semi Flush Mount Design by Sasha Hsiao

Overview First of all, you need to understand that this is a poor quality product, poorly manufactured in China. It's basically a spinning fan converted into a new ceiling mount case with an LED strip in the rim. It has a bottom oscillating lid to allow air to circulate, but that's what it is. (see fig 1) Construction The frame/rim is cheap sheet metal (paint scratches easily) that has been poorly formed (see fig 2). It turns out that there are 2 lanes. There are 12 COB LEDs per strip (see Fig. 3). They only attached a few strips of LED string lights underneath the exposed matte plastic, so it doesn't even cover the entire inner circle of the lighting area. It's not very bright, but provides sufficient illumination. The color changes from around 2700k (very warm white) to 6500k (awfully bluish). The dimmer works as described. (See photo 20-21) Cabling Unfortunately the cabling was not sufficient either. Both Hot/Line and Neutral are 18 gauge, not 16 as required by the NEC. Also 20 gauge earth. I think in China they just hammer a piece of metal into the wall and assume it's grounded. See fig 4. Installation First I removed the existing bracket (photos 5, 6, 7 and 8). They did include some screws to attach the ceiling mount, but those are crappy tinned screws, not ceiling box mounting screws. On fig. 9 I show 4 tinned screws that they will drive directly into the ceiling without anchors (not for their lives). I'm also showing my zinc plated steel bolt (which won't break under the tremendous amount of torque I might add). No, I didn't use your bullshit. Photo 10 shows that I installed the brackets. Please note that the bracket holes machined for the 4" ceiling box are not aligned. Again, this is because they don't follow any standards. This makes them cheaper to manufacture without worrying about specs or consistency of production. So I had to move the bracket to the holes in my drawer to install it. But I can tell you that as long as your live/hot (usually black) is connected to neutral (white) you should be fine as long as you always make sure you are grounded. The problem with the smaller wires on the downlight is that it doesn't really connect well to the 14 gauge wires in your walls. Especially 12 gauge if you have one. Personally, I've replaced most of my wiring with 14/3 Romex so I know what's in my walls and ceiling (I didn't replace all of it, but I managed). The best I can do is refer you to fig. 4. Security was difficult for several reasons. First, the case that the fan is attached to is made out of crappy sheet metal that seems to bend if you hold it too tight. Since the ceiling mounts were clearly an afterthought in the manufacturing process, that would explain the poorly machined holes. But now we have another problem to deal with. If installed flush with the ceiling box, the box will not align properly with the bracket holes! Why? No offset in the can height! Figure 11 shows that you need to bend the bracket slightly to allow the glass to slide over it. The screws are preinstalled on the brackets, but be aware that they are difficult to loosen and WILL BREAK when tightened (Fig. 13)! The paint on the can is easily scratched even with a fingernail (Figure 14), so of course the screws also remove the paint. Completing the work Make absolutely sure that the infrared sensor is NOT in the container when you install it. In this case, the remote control will NOT work (Fig. 18). And yes, you need a remote control to operate this device. Figures 19 to 21 show the completed installation. It's a really nice device and based on the reviews as well as reviews of similar products I was very careful with the installation.