Review on 🔧 Frost Plug Removal and Installation Set - OTC (4603) by Christopher Penn

The Stinger is great for installation but the bolt/net extractor - well don't spend the extra money on it. Thread in a self-tapping screw. A drill this size will not work in any way. I used different sizes of drill bits, ranging from 3/16" to 1/4" and eventually I was able to get the bolt to cut itself into the plug. .Here's the problem guys - when you start pulling the center of the plug - it actually pulls the plug into the hole. In the end this just rips the bolt out of the center of the connector - leaves the connector tighter using a chisel and hammer on the inside edge of the connector (without touching the block) to drive one side of the connector into the block, this way you can grab the opposite end of the connector with pliers to pull it out. Clean/sand the holes with fine sandpaper and lacquer thinner to remove all traces of grease/dirt/water - then coat the hole in the block with Permatex Liquid Sealant just prior to using the Stinger to install the plug. Now the good part - the tip works at different angles to insert a new plug (not cheap plugs - use BRASS) into the block. You'll need a big hammer to hammer the connectors in. I use a 5# lead sledgehammer since it doesn't hit the end of the stinger. If you use a steel hammer, pierce the stinger. It is now obvious that this tool is not magic. You must have line of sight to the block cap to use the tool. You may need to jack up the engine and remove the engine mounts etc. This makes things more difficult, but unless you remove the engine from the car, it becomes a tricky task. Take your time, keep your cool and you'll get the old plug out and the new one in. Trust me when I tell you that this tool is MUCH better than the old "put the plug in the hole with the old socket" method.