Review on 🔧 MOOG K8771T High-Performance Ball Joint by Tommy Penn

I've heard a horrible squeak/creak when driving a '98 Ford Ranger 2wd XLT through speed bumps and normal bumps in the road. So bought, exchanged, filled with the right grease/grease and the squeaking is gone. I've never changed ball joints. Tips I can offer: Sockets: 24mm deep or 15/16 for original castle nut, then used 27mm deep for new nut (torque: 83-113 per Haynes manual); 15mm is used for the control arm coupling nut (tightening torque: 35-46); Upside down 5 gallons. a vane for supporting the brake indicator and a smaller vane for supporting the steering knuckle; tried a cucumber fork but hit the lower arm/ball joint mount area a few times with a hammer and it came off fairly easily; Rent a ball joint removal tool from Advanced Auto or any auto shop instead of buying one - get your full money back when you return it; A jack can be placed under the lower suspension arm when attempting to reinsert the lag bolt into the spindle/suspension arm connection; Removing the C-Clip was easier to install/remove with a small pair of curved needle nose pliers and a flat head screwdriver compared to snap ring pliers (they just didn't open wide enough - although a cheap Harbor Freight version was used); Figuring out the best way to use the ball joint removal tool took the most time; Not all people in auto repair shops know what they are talking about, read a little and find out what parts you need instead of asking them. ie torsion bar vs coil spring - if you have a large coil spring that twists around your shock up front, buy front coil spring ball joints and control arms.