Review on 🚤 CZC AUTO 12V Submersible LED Trailer Tail Light Kit: Waterproof and Perfect for Under 80 Inch Trailer Boat Utility Trailer (Trailer Light Kit) by Marc Gallner

I use a 4x8 trailer to haul kayaks, a four wheeler, a garden tractor, lumber and motorcycles. I don't submerge it when launching kayaks, so I won't rate the lanterns' water resistance. Today I rebuilt my trailer. Total time from start (preparing materials) to finish (clearing things up) was 90 minutes at a steady, leisurely pace. After laying the trainer on its side and removing the old headlights, I used the old wiring to run the new ones through. Cable harness through the cable duct on the frame (chassis). Then I wire brushed, filed and sanded the metal surface where the floor leads to the taillights that attach to the frame. Each lamp was grounded to the frame with self-tapping screws. Dielectric grease was applied to the cleaned/sanded surface to improve electrical conductivity. I agree that the Erdcrimp (at the end of the tongue) was pretty light, but I used it. It works. I cut off a small amount of insulation and crimped directly onto the bare wire, not the insulation, without relying on the crimps to pierce the insulation for a contact. Because this connector isn't under load, I felt safe using the included terminal. Again, the metal is cleaned, dielectric grease and self-tapping screws are used for this grounding. I have F150. The 4-pin flat connector installed on the vehicle is female. The included harness connector didn't fit until I cut the "boot" of that connection with a sharp knife, exposing the three connectors. The fourth connector (green wire) was carefully shaved, slightly reducing the external dimensions, until it fitted the vehicle-mounted molded socket. Each of the three pins was then enlarged in diameter to facilitate a secure connection by slightly flaring each pin with the blade of a pocket knife. The pre-existing slot in each connection made this task easier. The lamps were soldered to the wiring harness, then wrapped in electrical tape and secured with zip ties to keep the wires from snagging. A ribbed plastic sheath (made from old wiring) was fitted to the new wiring harness where it exits the tab and taped at each end to discourage ants and spiders from nesting inside. trailer and to the 4-pin socket on the vehicle. The trailer was hitched up, the wiring harness connected and the headlights tested. All headlights worked great and were very bright - a huge improvement over the bulbs replaced! If I decide to load the trailer for launch I will impregnate the lenses and housing with silicone sealant. As a precaution, I disconnect the wiring harness from the car. However, kayaks can easily be transported to the water's edge and launched without a trailer. Everything says I am very satisfied with my purchase and the performance of this replacement kit. The only thing left to do is use the trailer and headlights and see how they hold up. If today's experience is any indication, I believe my optimism will continue. Upgrade Suggestion: Replace the lightweight connector ring with a stronger one. Do you really want to sweeten your product? Turn on a small pack of electrical lube.