Review on 🔥 AIRMX Soldering Station: Adjustable Temperature Range of 392℉ to 896℉ for Precision Soldering by Christian Poojary

Short Version: The AIRMX 2-in-1 Soldering Station is great for DIY soldering iron and heat gun repairs. Both the soldering iron and the hot air station are hot enough to work with the lead-free solder used in game consoles. I definitely recommend this set to anyone interested in this type of gear. Probably entry level. I'm no pro, but I've seen other devices perform three times as well, leading me to believe this is a place to start. Long version: AIRMX comes with many accessories. In addition to the hair dryer and soldering iron, you will receive two hair dryer attachments, tweezers, a desoldering pump, lead-free solder and several soldering iron tips. I mainly use a beveled/chisel tip for preparing pads on the motherboard and a pointed conical tip for tapping very small pins on SMD components. The kit includes a holder for a soldering iron and a heat gun. The hot air gun can be placed either on the left or on the right. The only thing that confuses me is that the heat gun is permanently attached to the device and the soldering iron can be detached with an airplane cable. I want both to have this type of connection. Operation: The operation of the device is quite simple. You turn on the device with the switch on the back and then you can select which instrument you want to turn on on the front. Use the two buttons at the top to select the temperature. I tried but couldn't figure out how to set the temperature to Celsius, which is my preferred temperature for everything but the weather. So I'll leave it at the Fahrenheit temperature for now and do some mental transformations. The tools heat up very quickly and the display shows the progress. Hot Air Gun: When you put the hot air gun in the holder, it will recognize that it is not in use and start the cooling process. This will set the fan to maximum until the device cools down; it heats up quickly after lifting. This isn't a gyro sensor, so don't worry that if you hold the heat gun upside down for a while, it will stop working. It won't stop until you put it in the holder. *Be careful* if you pick it up the fan can blow it to maximum to get back up to temperature quickly so don't keep it close to components or yourself. The air speed wheel is very responsive and you can Adjust on the fly as you work with the components. I kept the air velocity low so I wouldn't blow the components off when working in tight spaces. Overall, I enjoyed working with the heat gun. It was a very cool learning experience. Soldering station: I've been using a really cheap soldering iron without temperature control for a long time. I'm very familiar with how it works and its quirks. AIRMX is much better. The tips are of pretty good quality, don't rust immediately like my cheap ones. The tip remains beautifully shiny after completion. It gets hot very quickly. As far as I can tell, the iron doesn't have a charging mode. It stays hot even when put back in the holder. Also, the base is not attached to anything, so be careful as there is no rubber underneath to prevent slipping. I will add some rubber bumpers to prevent slipping. For now I've been using a heat resistant silicone mat to lay it down. Final Thoughts: Overall I think this is a great entry/intermediate stop. For version 2.0 I would like a detachable hair dryer, a non-slip soldering iron stand and more nozzles for the hair dryer. I was able to buy more separately here on Amazon very cheaply but it would be nice to have them in a box. I'm rating it a 4.5 due to the minor issues I have with this device, but Amazon doesn't have it so I'm giving it 5 stars because it really blew me away. The review is over here, but you can read how I shot to save my Nintendo Switch below. Repair Success Story: The reason I praise AIRMX is because I was able to repair my Nintendo Switch screen. Problems caused by replacing the fpc connector (the little clip that connects the LCD). I recently changed the Switch's outer shell to blue, which required removing all the innards from the original shell and putting everything in a new shell. This includes removing the LCD/digitizer. The LCD ribbon cable is quite difficult to plug into the connector with the motherboard already screwed on and I fiddled with it too much which resulted in image distortion. I removed the cable and examined the connector to find that previous commotion had bent and crushed the pins. My only options were to send it to a shop for who knows how long or try it myself. I decided to do it myself and learn something new. I first practiced on the SMD board. In the first picture you can see the components I have successfully attached to the board. They were all pre-soldered using flux and lead solder to wet the pads. I then attached them all with a hot air station. After adding and removing these components a few times with ease, I moved on to the Switch. In the second picture you can see the removed fpc connector. For this to work you need to apply heat under the board to avoid melting the plastic of the component or the plastic of the other connectors around it. To be on the safe side, I used Kapton tape on adjacent components. The plug came loose fairly quickly when heated to the highest setting (930 F), airspeed 2, and using the larger of the two nozzles provided. and applied flux to the area. I carefully installed the new connector, reapplied heat under the circuit board and after a few seconds it snapped into place. This time I connected the LCD ribbon cable from the case to the motherboard. It went much easier and you can see the result in the last photo. Fully working screen!