Review on DFM Tool Works Cabinet Rectangle by Noel Pilla

I like DFM's desire to bring tool manufacturing back to the US. But these scrapers are not produced properly. They are, as it were, stamped or punched out of sheet steel. This is quality work but there is noticeable warping of the steel. You'll see it when you condition the flat edges. Bring them to a rock to smooth a flat edge and quickly see the imperfections (I used a rotating Japanese Makita rock as well as 3M diamond slabs set on a polished piece of granite to stabilize scientific measuring instruments). but was puzzled as to why they were stamped the way they were - with the abrasive grit oriented perpendicular to the cutting edge. I mean short term. This is important because when preparing a scraper you want a smooth, even burr on the edge. The ridge is not visible to the naked eye. They go by touch. A clearly visible abrasive grain results in an edge that looks more like a rake than a shovel. They will make the edge colorful - uneven. If they stamp them differently, they get 4 stars. But the ground surface still causes pain. And they are very stiff for a .032 inch scraper. I bought them along with a set of two Lie Nielsen scrapers for about the same price. It took some time to properly prepare the rim of my motorized water stone for these DFM scrapers. A few hours (there are 2 edges x 2 sides x 2 scrapers) When I got to the Lee-Neelson scrapers, my first pass showed I didn't even need to bother - they were incredibly consistent along the edge. They appeared to be milled rather than ground, but whatever the process, it was excellent. I will give both exercises and report. In the meantime, I'll buy Lie Nielson scrapers. They are also available in two perfectly flexible thicknesses. (Disclaimer: I am in no way affiliated with Lie-Nielson other than the fact that they make hand tools that are well worth the money and I have about a dozen of theirs. Their planes - but it's the best you can get can, and a great tribute to American craftsmanship). UPDATE: sorry, that was le. I forgot I promised to write an update after using the DFM and Lie Nielsen parsers. I've done a lot with both of them now and can pass on the performance evaluation. First let me say that once you have your scraper well prepared you can literally take almost any piece of steel, put a burr on it and scrape it off. I say this from experience - I've had to do this many, many times as a last resort. So DFM scrapers are good in that regard - they're pretty stiff, which can wear your hands out if you try to bend them while scraping (even bending a little outward when you're pushing, or inward when you're pulling , puts more strain on your hands). scraper efficiency). DFM steel appears to be quite hard which means it takes some effort to get the burr on the edges. The benefit is that the burr lasts quite a while before it needs touching up. In general I like DFM scrapers but I find them best for rough hard work. Lie Nielsen offers two thicknesses in its kit: .032" and .020". Using a thinner scraper is a pleasure - you really feel control of the blade as you bend it very easily and naturally. Steel doesn't feel as hard as DFM. not that it's soft, but the DFM is really that hard! I think I would use Lie Nielsen scrapers for more difficult tasks like final cleaning before finishing. I personally prefer to scrape the surface carefully and then sand it down with fine or extra fine Scotchbrite sanding pads before applying the top coat. As you probably know, a scraper cuts through the grain of the wood rather than ripping it apart, giving MUCH more depth to the surface of the wood after sanding if sanding is kept to a minimum (I hate sanding time). Once you get used to the scraper, you can even use scrapers to remove the "hairs” that rise up after applying the first coat of varnish. followed by a slightly lighter work in Scotchbrite. Here are a few pointers on scraper prep for those just starting out with scraping (as there are a number of reviews expressing disappointment that scrapers are not prepped). The most important thing is not to give up - it takes practice, like any skill, and the rewards are well worth the effort! It took a while but I finally got the hang of it when I realized I was trying too hard. I created too many burrs. There's a lot of mystique surrounding scraper sharpening, and a lot of it has to do with creating burrs, but it's actually a pretty simple process. For me the main thing is that it's quick and easy. I use a router file in a holder that holds the file at 90 degrees to the scraper. something like the Woodsmith version but simpler (and cheaper). You can make your own out of hardwood, but I wouldn't freehand file the edge because it's very important that it's perpendicular to the side edges. Just a few strokes with a file, then a quick edge sharpening and two edges. I use whatever small stone I have on hand - ceramic stone works well. If I don't have a stone handy, I skip the honing and go straight to polishing. I use a 1/2" drill bit for buffing. Nothing fancy (any polish should be 1/2" or larger in diameter. Don't use anything smaller). Neglect: First I buff both sides of the scraper - I set it on one bench or table and using maximum force, run the boring bar along the sides along the edge. This will smooth out any remaining sanding or filing marks and strengthen the edge a bit. I think it's really important. The scraper is then placed in a wood vise which only shows about 3/4". I find some skin oil (usually works behind the ear) and rub it into the rim. Then I begin the exercise. Shaft at 90 degrees in both directions with moderate pressure along the edge, until I feel a very small burr, which quickly creates a weak cutting edge. Hold the drill/grinder shank for at least 90° at a 90° angle 3 strokes in each direction, again until you feel a slight ridge when you run your finger along the side edge. THEN tilt the buff about 15% and apply a moderate pull in each direction for each side of the edge (i.e. wipe back and forth and tilt the buff to the left, then back and forth and tilt the buff to the right ). finishing touches - the real work consisted of polishing the sides flat and 90° on the edge. Give it a little attention and you can get 4 good edges on the scraper in less than 10 minutes (I usually do short sides too). It's really a light breeze and I don't think about it anymore (I used to be afraid of it). Again, keep it simple and don't go crazy tipping the polisher. We wish you good luck and joy!