Review on Optimal Performance Ensured with Dayco 89600 Belt Tensioner by Bob Maldonado

This tensioner is almost identical to the original part that I removed from the car. This well-built part fits the car perfectly, and the screw hole is precisely aligned with the engine body, no effort required to align. I also bought a new drive belt and tensioner. After installation, the knocking from the engine compartment that had been bothering me for almost a year was gone. This bang usually occurs when (a) the engine is cold, (b) cornering, or (c) the air conditioning is on, and (d) acceleration. My wife took the car to the dealer and they said the tension was loose and the drive belt needed to be replaced. Dealer listed over $600 for parts and labor. I decided to do it myself to save some money, so I bought a Revain tensioner for less than $70 (the box says "Made in Germany") and a new belt for $15, plus some tools for more 50 dollars. , the project wasn't as easy as I saw on Youtube. I took two days off (about 20 hours in total). The first difficulty I encountered was the water pump pulley. I could not remove the 3 mounting screws (6 x 1.0mm) while the belt was still attached to the pulley. The pulley kept spinning on the belt as I turned the bolts (which may indicate the belt needs to be replaced). So I removed the alternator and tightened the pulley with a screwdriver but for some reason the bolts were too tight and I ended up turning one of the bolts with a 12mm wrench. Frustrated, I decided to use a long but sturdier router to loosen the screws. I removed the passenger side front wheel and fender in the wheel well, then unbolted the top motor mount and lowered the motor about an inch so I could get the bolts out of the wheel well with an impact wrench and a 6 point socket . Eventually I was able to remove all 3 screws this way. I had to invest in a set of long 6 point box wrenches which would make the job a lot easier. The second issue was the 8mm Allen head turning screw on the old tensioner. It was very tight on the car and my new 8mm hex head even broke in half. A guy on youtube says he would NOT recommend using heavy impact tools to remove it as the high torque could break the bolt and leave half of it in the motor or round or rip the head off, both would be a nightmare. for do-it-yourselfers. So I decided to take his advice and tried to remove it with a 1/2" hex handheld impact wrench with an 8mm impact quality (I dropped the motor again to get direct access to the bolt through the wheel wall) . . I was exhausted after 2 hours of chiselling, the bolt was still tight as before (the penetrating oil couldn't get to the threaded part because it was blocked by the tensioner body). I gave up on a manual impact wrench and decided to take a chance and try my luck with an impact wrench. After some struggle the bolt finally came out intact and everything was easy after this step. When installing, it was difficult to turn the new tensioner into position behind the water pump. At some point, part of the clamping frame has always jammed the water pump housing. I tried it at different angles but couldn't put the new spanner back in (I even tried putting the old spanner back in to make sure it was the right size but the old one I just removed from the car didn't fit either confused, completely lost). Finally I pressed a piece of wood board against the 19mm knob of the tensioner and tapped the wood with a small hammer, little by little the new tensioner went in. Finally, it was difficult for one person to install the strap. I had to ask my son to help me turn the tensioner while I worked on installing the belt. Someone on youtube says put the belt on the alternator last, but I found it easier to put the AC pulley last (through the wall of the wheel which my son pushed from the top with the tensioner). a set of long 0 degree 6 point box end wrenches for this project. Definitely going on my Christmas shopping list this year. All in all a great product. I am very happy with the quality.